Millook to Trebarfoote

The walk starts at Millook Haven and follows Millook Water upstream, then climbs through Trebarfoote Wood to Trebarfoote Manor, overlooking the valley. The route descends further upstream to The Den, crossing meadows and climbing through Landy Wood, on the other side of the valley, before reaching the coast near Cancleave Strand, where a steep path with ropes leads to the beach. The return is via the coast path across Millook Common, passing Gull Rock and Broad Strand, before returning to Millook Mouth.

Vital statistics

  • OS Explorer: 111 (scan QR code on right to order from Amazon)
  • Distance: 3 miles/4.8 km
  • Grade: Moderate
  • Start from: the road near the beach Millook Haven
  • Parking: On the side of the road near the bottom of the hill. Satnav: EX230DQ
  • Recommended footwear: walking shoes or boots

Maps for this walk

(dark blue corner = laminated version)

Highlights

  • Pretty wildflowers, including orchids, in the meadows along the valley
  • Ancient woodland around Millook Valley, with bluebells in spring
  • Spectacular coastal views from Millook Common
  • Delicate honeycomb reefs and geological origami at Millook Haven
  • Nice views across Millook Wood from Trebarfoote

Directions

  1. From Millook Haven, head up the road towards Crackington (to the left if you are facing the beach) until you reach a gate on the left, next to a pair of white doors. Go through the gate and follow the track to a signpost opposite a house.

    Millook Haven is a pebble beach at mid-high tide, though there is some sand at the very lowest part of the tide. The cliffs behind the beach have impressive zig-zag folding patterns, formed 320 million years ago. The rocks are part of the "Crackington Formation": thin layers of sandstones and shales, deformed by the tectonic plate collision at the end of the Carboniferous period, that crumpled the earth's crust, giving rise to the tors of Bodmin Moor.

  2. At the signpost to Poundstock, continue straight ahead along the track until you reach a waymark on the left where it emerges from the trees into a meadow.

    Millook was a notorious spot for smuggling.

    In the 1780s, Britain was in financial crisis after losing the American War of Independence. High levels of duty were imposed on luxury goods in order to recoup the national debt and this included the curing salt vital to the pilchard industry which was taxed at around 4000%! Consequently many Cornish fishermen that were previously legally employed by the trade were driven into illegal smuggling. Towards the end of the 18th Century, nearly half a million gallons of brandy and more than a quarter of a million pounds of tea were being smuggled into Cornwall each year. This continued until the 1840s, when Britain adopted a free-trade policy that slashed import duties. Within ten years, large-scale smuggling was just a memory.

  3. At the waymark, turn left onto the footpath, following the edge of the trees to a footbridge.

    The local dialect in Cornwall included a number of words related to smuggling. For the purveyors themselves there was:

    Troacher - a hawker of smuggled goods.

    ..and a word specifically for smuggled liquor:

    Custom (pron. coostom) - raw, smuggled spirits. "A drap o' coostom."

    ...and also the barrels to transport it:

    Anker - a small keg or cask of handy size for carrying by hand, or slung on horse-back.
  4. Cross the bridge and bear left onto a track from the ford. Head to the right, along the track, climbing up through the woods to a gate.
  5. Go through the gate and follow the path through the woods until it emerges into a field. Then follow the path through a ditch along the left edge of the field until it emerges into another field where there is a waymark.

    It may be an urban myth that Eskimos have a large number of words for "snow" but it's cast iron fact that there are at least this many words for "hill" in Cornish:

    • Meneth was often used to refer to Cornwall's higher peaks, or (outside of Cornwall) to mountains.
    • Tor was used for hills with rock outcrops protruding (and for the rock outcrops themselves)
    • Brea was used to refer to the most prominent hill in a district.
    • Ryn refers to a 'hill' in the sense of projecting ground, or a steep hill-side or slope.
    • Garth was used to refer to a long narrow hilltop.
    • Ambel refers to the side of a hill.
    • Mulvra refers to a round-topped hill.
    • Godolgh is a very small hill.
    • Bron means 'breast' as well as hill.
  6. From the waymark, continue straight ahead towards two gateways in the corner of the field.
  7. Go through the gate on the right and bear right slightly up the field, passing Trebarfoote Manor on your left, to a gate to the right of the tree.

    Trebarfoote is situated on a hill near Poundstock, overlooking the Millook Valley. The manor house at Trebarfoote has had a colourful history, being used by smugglers, attacked in the Civil War and its ballroom the venue of wild parties in the 1920s. It has even been reported as being haunted by the ghost of the daughter of the squire of Penfound Manor, who was shot 400 years ago whilst trying to elope with the squire at Trebarfoote. Today it seems a little more sedate - for now anyway.

  8. Go through the gate and turn right onto the stony track. Follow this all the way down the bottom of the valley to reach a wooden signpost on the left.

    In June, foxgloves flower along the track.

    The common name "foxglove" dates back many hundreds of years but the origin is unknown. The "gloves" almost certainly refers to the shape of the flowers, and the latin name Digitalis (fingerlike) is along similar lines. The curious part is the "fox" and many different suggestions have been made as to where it came from. It is likely that it is a corruption of another word; possibly "folks" which was once used to mean "fairies".

    Foxgloves are reliant on bumblebees for pollination and bumblebees are much more active when the weather is good. As an insurance policy against bad weather, foxgloves have evolved to stagger their flowering over several weeks, starting with the flowers at the base of the stalk and working up to the top, where the higher flowers protrude over other vegetation that has grown up in that time.

  9. At the signpost, continue to follow the track in the direction of Dizzard until you reach a small bridge crossing a stream.
  10. Cross the bridge then bear left along the path to the left of the house until you reach a waymark next to a kissing gate.
  11. At the waymark, turn right through the kissing gate and cross the meadow to a footbridge into Landy Wood.

    The meadow has a spectacular display of wildflowers during the spring which attract nectar-feeding insects such as butterflies and bumblebees.

    Bumblebees were originally called "humble bees" and this name was still in use until early 20th century. There is an urban myth that according to aerodynamics, bumblebees should not be able to fly, leading to statements by US presidential candidates such as:

    It's scientifically impossible for the bumblebee to fly; but the bumblebee, being unaware of these scientific facts, flies anyway.

    You may not be too surprised to discover this assertion was based on flawed calculations in the early 20th Century that neglected to include the bees flapping their wings. In fact, during flight, they beat their wings around 200 times every second. However, the buzzing sound they make is not from the beating wings but from the bee's vibrating flight muscles. On cold days, by using their flight muscles, the bees are able to warm up their bodies to temperatures as high as 30 Celcius. In spring, queen bumblebees need to visit up to 6,000 flowers per day to gather enough nectar and pollen to establish their colony.

  12. Cross the bridge and bear left up the steps to a waymark at a fork in the path. Turn right at the waymark and follow the path through the woods until it emerges at a stile into a field.

    The Millook Valley, above Millook Haven, contains an area of anciend woodland. The broad-leaved woodland is now owned by the Woodland Trust and is designated a Site of Special Scientific Interest, an Ancient Woodland Site and an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. There are primroses in spring, wildflowers including orchids in summer and blackberries and sloes in autumn. Fauna includes dormice, otters and smooth snakes.

  13. Cross the stile into the field and follow the right hedge to a waymarked gate.

    If you are crossing fields in which there are cows:

    • Do not show any threatening behaviour towards calves (approaching them closely, making loud noises or walking between a calf and its mother) as you may provoke the mother to defend her young. Generally the best plan is to walk along the hedges.
    • If cows approach you, do not run away as this will encourage them to chase you. Stand your ground and stretch out your arms to increase your size.
    • Avoid taking dogs into fields with cows, particularly with calves. If you must: if cows charge, release the dog from its lead as the dog will outrun the cows and the cows will generally chase the dog rather than you.
  14. Go through the gate onto a track and immediately through another waymarked gate on the left into a field. Bear right across the field to a gate on the right of the house.
  15. Go through the gate on the right of the house and follow a short track to reach a lane.
  16. Turn right on the lane. Follow the lane along the length of a large field ahead on the left until you reach a gate on the left, just the other side of the hedge.
  17. Go through the gate on the left into the field. Follow the left hedge until you reach a waymark on the far side of the field.

    The trees in the hollow on the left side of the fields extend out onto the cliffs and around the headland.

    The woods on the cliffs of Dizzard are more than 6,000 years old. The trees include sessile oak and wild service trees, stunted by the salty winds. Wild service berries were used to make a strong alcoholic liqueur. The berries and associated spirit are known in some areas as "chequers" and this is thought to be the origin of a number of pubs with this name.

  18. At the waymark, continue to follow along the left hedge to a little waymark. From here, keep left along the edge of the field, above the cliff edge, to reach a fence in front of a house.
  19. Follow the path along the fence past a footpath to the beach to reach a stile. Cross the stile and follow the coast path through gates and over stiles for about half a mile until it eventually ends at a stile onto a lane, opposite a signpost to Millook Haven.

    The rocky beach at the bottom of the cliff on your left is Cancleave Strand.

    Cancleave Strand is a rocky beach to the west of Millook Haven. The foreshore of Cancleave Strand consists of impressively folded rock strata which have been upended and eroded by the sea creating a maze of rocky ridges. The offshore island on the right side of the beach is, like many other offshore rocks in Cornwall, known as Gull Rock. There are quite good views of the beach from the coast path at low tide, but if you're feeling brave and the tide is out, it is possible to reach the beach. However note the warning on the sign beside the path which offers the words of encouragement: "informal access to beach via roped descent on eroding cliff face".

  20. Turn left and follow the lane downhill to Millook Haven.

    At low tide, a series of delicate reefs is revealed.

    Honeycomb Worm reefs are fascinating structures, built out of sand on the lower shore. The large golden hummocks have an intricate honeycomb structure up to several metres across and a metre deep. Filter-feeding worms, about 3-4cm long, live in tubes, fanning out plankton from the passing water and capturing particles of shell and rock to build their tubes. Each worm can live for 3-5 years, although the overall reefs last much longer. Although quite brittle, the reefs provide a habitat for a number of other species including anemones, barnacles, limpets, winkles, whelks, mussels and crabs.

    The worms need hard rock to build on, and sand to build with, so their requirements are very specific: there must be enough wave action to bring a supply of sand to the rocky areas, but not so much that the worms are blasted off the rocks. The formation of reefs is assisted by a clever biological mechanism. Honeycomb worm larvae drift around in seawater and could settle anywhere to grow into adults. However, the presence of existing worm colonies, or their dead remains, strongly stimulates any passing larvae to settle out at that location, helping to ensure that the reef continues to grow.

Help us with this walk

You can help us to keep this walk as accurate as it possibly can be for others by spotting and feeding back any changes affecting the directions. We'd be also very grateful if could you look out for the following:

  • If you have a large dog, let us know if you find problems with the stiles on this walk (e.g. require the dog to be lifted over). A rough idea of how many problematic stiles there are is useful as some single women can just about manage one or two but not a dozen.

email contact@iwalkcornwall.co.uk, or message either IWalkCornwall on facebook or @iwalkc on twitter. If you have any tips for other walkers please let us know, or if you want to tell us that you enjoyed the walk, we'd love to hear that too.

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