Rame Head and Cawsand

The route follows the coast around Whitsand Bay to Queener Point and then Rame Head where a one-way path leads out the mediaevel chapel and there are panoramic views. The walk continues along the Coast Path from Rame Head to Penlee Point. From here, the walk enters the woods and descends to Cawsand. The return route is via The Fort and across Wringford Down to the hamlet of Wiggle.

Vital statistics

  • OS Explorer: 108 (scan QR code on right to order from Amazon)
  • Distance: 5.6 miles/9.0 km
  • Grade: Moderate
  • Start from: Wiggle Cliff
  • Parking: Wiggle Cliff car park. From the B3247, take the turning near Tregantle Fort to Whitsand Bay and Freathy Cliff. Follow this for just over a mile until you reach a triangular grassy area between two lanes on the left with a car park behind. Park in this. Note that individual postcodes cover quite a large land area on Rame Head so Satnav probably won't get you all the way to the car park. Satnav: PL101LF
  • Recommended footwear: Walking shoes or trainers in Summer

Maps for this walk

(dark blue corner = laminated version)

Highlights

  • Panoramic views across Whitesand Bay and Plymouth Sound
  • Mediaeval chapel on Rame Head
  • Mediaeval streets and sandy beach at Cawsand

Adjoining walks

Directions

  1. Go down the short lane on the right of the car park to reach the road. Cross to the track opposite and follow this to a bench where a path departs to the left.

    Wiggle Cliff lives up to its name by providing foodplants for a diverse variety of caterpillars which can be seen here as butterflies in the summer. As well as the usual suspects, some more unusual species such as the Marbled White can sometimes be seen here.

    A popular misconception is that a butterfly was originally called flutterby. In fact, the name stems from the Old English word buttorfleoge which literally means "butterfly". Exactly why they were associated with butter is a bit of a mystery. One theory is that they were seen hovering over pails of milk and thought to be stealing or protecting the butter. Another is that the Yellow Brimstone was the species for which this name was first devised. The term "flutterby" is thought to have been coined by Shakespeare.

  2. Bear left onto the path and follow it to reach Wiggle Hut.

    Wiggle Hut is owned by the YMCA which was founded in 1844 in London "to provide low-cost housing in a safe Christian environment for rural young men and women journeying to the cities" during the Industrial Revolution and to "preserve youth from the temptations of alcohol, gambling, and prostitution". In more recent times the YMCA has dedicated itself to promoting a healthy lifestyle including exercise and the outdoors, hence the hut on a cliff, in case you were wondering if this was the minimum distance necessary to escape the vices of Plymouth docks.

  3. Continue on the path past the hut to reach a kissing gate.

    In August, blackberries start to ripen on brambles. Blackberries are closely related to raspberries and technically neither is a berry but an aggregate of many individual tiny fruits, each containing a tiny stone like a miniature cherry. Blackberries are high in vitamin C, K and antioxidants. The seeds, despite being a bit crunchy, contain omega-3 and -6 fatty acids and further enhance blackberries' "superfood" status.

    According to folklore, you should not pick blackberries after Michealmas Day (11th October) as this is when the devil claims them. The basis for this is thought to be the potentially toxic moulds which can develop on the blackberries in the cooler, wetter weather.

  4. Go through the kissing gate and follow the path until you reach a kissing gate onto a track.

    Devon cattle are sometimes used to graze the coast here.

    The cattle breeds known as Devon were also the traditional breeds used in Cornwall until recent years. The South Devon breed, affectionately known as "Orange Elephant" or "Gentle Giant", is the largest of the British native breeds: the largest recorded bull weighed 2 tonnes. They are thought to have descended from the large red cattle of Normandy, which were imported during the Norman invasion of England. The other breed, known as "Devon Ruby" or "Red Ruby" (due to their less orange colouration), is one of the oldest breeds in existence, with origins thought to be from pre-Roman Celtic Britain.

  5. Go through the gate and turn right onto the track. Follow it a few paces until you reach an unsurfaced path departing from the left before the houses. Bear left onto the path and follow it until it ends at the top of a flight of steps onto a track.

    Flint tools found in the vicinity of Rame Head indicate that the area has been occupied from as far back as the Mesolithic period following the last Ice Age, when East Anglia was connected to continental Europe via a land bridge which now lies beneath the North Sea.

  6. When you reach the track, cross it to the flight of steps opposite and climb these to reach a waymark at a junction of paths.
  7. At the junction of paths, turn right and follow the path to a kissing gate into a field.

    Rame Head is part of a small Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty known as the "Rame Head Heritage Coast" that also includes Cawsand Bay and the Mount Edgcumbe Country Park.

    There are 33 regions in England designated Areas Of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB) which were created in 1949 at the same time as the National Parks. In fact the AONB status is very similar to that of National Parks. There is a single Cornwall AONB which is itself subdivided into 12 sections. 11 of these are sections of the coastline and the 12th is Bodmin Moor.

  8. Go through the gate and follow the path along the right hedge of the field to reach a kissing gate in the far hedge.

    Along the coast, in the late summer and autumn, you can sometimes find parasol mushrooms, obvious from their huge size and umbrella shape. They are one of the best eating mushrooms and have firm white flesh.

  9. Go through the gate and follow the path through the bushes and out onto the coast. Continue to where the path passes over a rock outcrop.

    A small path leads out onto the rock outcrop and there a views across Whitesand Bay from here. On the opposite side of the bay is Looe and Looe Island is visible on a clear day. The large sandy beach half-way around the bay is known as Long Sands or Tregantle Beach. This is in the line of fire of several MOD firing ranges situated below Tregantle Fort and is therefore sometimes closed to the public.

  10. Continue along the coast towards the chapel on the headland and across a footbridge. Keep right to a rock outcrop and then continue to keep right along the edge of the scrub until you meet another path running from the coastguard lookout to the chapel.

    The lookout on Rame Head was originally one of the Lloyds Signal Stations, similar to the one on The Lizard. This was used to send messages to passing ships using flags during the day and, often less successfully, lights at night. By 1905 radio signalling had rendered visual forms of communication obsolete and the building was converted into a radio station. Some time around 1925 it was converted into a Coastguard lookout and is now run by the National Coastwatch Institution.

    The National Coastwatch Institution was set up to restore visual watches along the UK coastline after two Cornish fishermen lost their lives within sight of an empty Coastguard lookout in 1994. The first station - at Bass Point on The Lizard, where the fishermen had died - opened in December 1994. The organisation, staffed by volunteers, now runs 50 lookout stations around England and Wales.

  11. Turn right and follow the path towards the chapel until you reach a path departing from the left next to a pair of benches overlooking the sea.

    The chapel, now just a shell, is dedicated to St Michael in common with many other mediaeval chapels in high, rocky places. The chapel was first licensed for Mass in 1397 and is thought to be on the site of a Celtic hermitage as the manor of Rame was owned by Tavistock Abbey in the 10th Century. The chapel is constructed of local slate and has a vaulted stone roof which has allowed it to survive so long, although it was restored in 1882. Remaining traces of mortar indicate that originally it would have been rendered and whitewashed both inside and out.

    The concrete platform on the seaward side of the chapel is the remains of a World War 2 gun platform. A mobile radar installation was also sited here. The headland was also used during World War 1 for an anti-submarine gun for which hydrophones were used to detect any enemy submarines approaching Plymouth Sound.

  12. Turn left and follow the path to reach a bench where a path joins from the left.

    During the Iron Age, the headland was protected with ramparts to create a promontory fort. The ditch and a small part of one of the ramparts can still be seen. In a hollow beyond the ramparts, there are traces of what might be houses. Although at the time of writing the site has not been excavated, this would be consistent with excavations of other cliff castles which have often revealed remains of round houses and other buildings within the ramparts.

  13. Continue ahead from the bench, and follow the path along the wall, keeping the wall on your left. Continue along the path to reach a wooden Coast Path signpost.

    The end of the headland is grazed by moorland ponies.

    Dartmoor ponies, bred for hauling goods, have been recorded living on the wild and unhospitable moors since the Middle Ages. They are unsurprisingly a very hardy breed and have a lifespan of around 25 years. Over the 20th Century, their numbers declined from just over 25,000 in the 1930s to about 5,000 by the start of the 21st century when only around 800 ponies were known to be grazing the moor. Dartmoor ponies have recently found a new niche as conservation grazers. As well as on moorland, they are used by the Wildlife Trusts to graze the coast to prevent bracken and gorse taking hold.

  14. Continue ahead, signposted to Penlee Point and Cawsand, and follow the path until it ends at a gate onto a track.

    17 acres of woodland and grassland on Penlee Point are now a nature reserve, managed by the Cornwall Wildlife Trust. Britain's first Green Darner dragonfly was found here in 1998.

  15. Go through the kissing gate on the right of the gate and follow the right-hand track along the coast to where a path departs from the right.

    The Coronation was a 90 gun man-of-war ship built towards the end of the Stuart period. In 1691, she was sheltering from a gale behind Rame Head and it is thought that her anchor cables broke. She capsized and was driven aground and only around 20 of her 500 crew survived. The wreck lay undiscovered until 1967 when a large number of cannons were found scattered over the seabed close to the shore. However, after careful surveying, only 50 cannons were accounted for. It was not until 10 years later after a systematic search that another area of wreckage was discovered further offshore. As well as 15 more cannons, a pewter plate was discovered which was inscribed with the coat of arms of the ship's captain, confirming the suspected identity of the wreck. The split wreck site is still a mystery, as are the missing cannons. It's possible that the hull may have broken in half where she was anchored and the smaller bow section sank close to the anchor site whilst the remainder washed ashore. There is a protection order limiting access to the wreck and new finds are still being made.

  16. Keep left to stay on the track and follow the track around the point and for about a quarter of a mile into the woods to a waymark where a path departs to the right, just after a bench.

    A gun battery was constructed on Penlee Point in the late 1880s and used throughout both World Wars. It was initially armed with two 6 inch guns and a massive 13.5 inch gun which weighed 67 tons and took eighty horses two weeks to haul it up a specially constructed flight of steps. On its first firing, the recoil from the gun split its concrete bed. The battery was decommissioned in the 1950s and the buildings associated with it were demolished but there are still enough remains to appreciate the scale of the defences.

  17. At the waymark, bear right down the path and follow this to a track.

    In the English Channel, nine miles to the south of Rame Head, is an extensive reef just breaking the surface, known as the Eddystone Rocks.

    The Eddystone Rocks, known locally as the "stone", were a major hazard for shipping along the South Cornish coast, particularly when headed for Plymouth. As well as wrecks on the reef itself, many wrecks occurred because mariners, fearing the Eddystone Rocks, steered wide to hug the French coast and then hit reefs off France or the Channel Islands. Before the first lighthouse was built here in 1698, over 50 ships a year were wrecked on the reef, with most lives lost. After only 5 years, the lighthouse was washed away together with 5 men including its designer in the great storm of 1703. The second lighthouse, also built from timber, lasted nearly 50 years but burnt down when a spark from the candle ignited the lantern. The three lighthouse keepers were rescued from the rock but one, aged 94, later died of lead poisoning from ingesting molten lead from the lantern roof when attempting to fight the fire.

  18. At the end of the path, bear left onto the track and follow it to a waymark where a path departs to the right.

    After the Eddystone Lighthouse burnt down, the engineer John Smeaton designed its replacement - this time in stone - consisting of granite blocks held together with a quick-drying lime mortar of his own invention and modelled on the shape of an oak tree. The lighthouse took 3 years to build and was finally lit in 1759. The design was so effective that the lighthouse outlasted the rock on which is was built, and became the standard method of construction for lighthouses worldwide. After 127 years, the rock began to crack from the action of the waves and the lighthouse would sway when hit by large waves. After a new lighthouse was constructed on a different rock, the people of Plymouth raised money to have Smeaton's lighthouse dismantled and reassembled on the Hoe, where it still stands today. However the lighthouse base was so sturdy that it could not be dismantled and still stands on Eddystone Reef next to the new lighthouse.

  19. At the waymark, bear right onto the path and follow this until it ends in a tarmacked area.

    The current Eddystone lighthouse was designed by Trinity House civil engineer James Douglass, using the design principles that John Smeaton had pioneered on the previous lighthouse. The granite was quarried from the De Lank quarries on Bodmin Moor, transported down the railway which is now the Camel Trail, and carved in Wadebridge, along the road that became known as Eddystone Road. As each layer was completed, it was checked for its fit with the layer above and then sent out to the Eddystone rocks by sea. Douglass designed a special ship, called the "Hercules", to transport and lift the three ton blocks of granite into position. The lighthouse was completed in 1882 and is 95ft tall.

  20. Cross the parking area to the waymarked path and follow this until it opens out into a small lane and ends at a junction.

    In 2003, a Royal Navy training vessel from Dartmouth hit the Eddystone Rock, resulting in one man being injured. The cause was reported as GPS error, and whilst the presence of trees or tall buildings can reduce the precision of a GPS signal, it's unlikely that in the open ocean this would have been much of a problem. It was also pointed out that, given it was a calm day with good visibility, the 100ft high granite tower visible 12 miles away should have also provided an indication of the vessel's position.

  21. Turn right and follow the lane past the square and past the Cross Keys Inn to reach St Andrew's Street on the left, along the back of the Cross Keys Inn.

    From the village square, the way to the beach is along "The Bound" past the gig racing club.

    The six-oared elm boats known as Pilot Gigs were general-purpose work boats, but one of their uses was to transport the pilot to and from a ship, which resulted in the name. The first boat to meet a ship gained the business of transporting the captain (and thus being paid) and thus a "race" came into being, with different boats competing for business. Today, Gig Racing is of a recreational nature, but the boats are still built to the exact well-documented specification of the originals. Elm wood is highly resistant to water, so much so, that town water mains were made of elm before the widespread availability of iron.

  22. Turn left up St Andrew's Street and follow it until it emerges on the road.

    Until 1844, the border between Celtic Cornwall and Saxon Devon lay between Cawsand and Kingsand, defined by a small stream. On Garrett Street, just before you reach the Halfway House Inn, there is a house with a marker indicating where the border used to be.

  23. Turn right onto the road and follow it past the gun emplacement to reach a public footpath sign beside a flight of steps with wooden railings on the left, just past the corner of the fort.

    From the gun emplacement with the two cannons on the bend in the road, there is a good view across Plymouth Sound to the breakwater.

    Constructed in 1812, the stone breakwater stretches for very close to a mile across the centre of Plymouth Sound and was described by Napoleon as "a grand thing" as he passed it on his way to exile on St Helena in 1815. The sea wall is constructed from granite quarried from the Luxulyan Valley near St Austell and is infilled with limestone from the Plymouth area. In total, nearly four million tonnes of rock were used in its construction. The lighthouse was added in 1844, and the fort during the 1860s when France was expanding its navy and the resulting nervousness lead to intensification of defences around major British sea ports.

  24. Turn left up the steps and follow the footpath to emerge on a lane. Cross the lane to the waymarked flight of steps and follow these to reach a wall with a waymark on the right side. Bear right and follow along the side of the building to join a path. Follow this to a kissing gate.

    The fort overlooking Cawsand was built in the 1860s on the site of a gun battery from 1779, covering the western entrance to Plymouth Sound. At the time, the expanding French Navy prompted a Royal Commission instigated by Lord Palmerston to improve Britain's coastal defences in case France attempted an invasion. However, by the time the forts were complete it had become clear that France had no intention of invading and the forts became known as Palmerston's Follies. The site was released by the Ministry of Defence after the First World War and was derelict for a number of decades until it was eventually converted into residential accommodation.

  25. Go through the gate and cross the field initially towards the buildings, then bear right along the path following the contour of the hill to reach a kissing gate in the corner of the field.

    Due to their proximity to Plymouth, Cawsand and Kingsand were the centre for the largest smuggling trade in Cornwall which lasted from Tudor times until the 19th Century. The huge navy presence in Plymouth made it too dangerous for smugglers to land goods directly in the port, but ironically the sailors from those vessels provided the largest market known for smuggled spirits. In the 18th and 19th Centuries, it was estimated that 17,000 casks of brandy were being smuggled into Cawsand Bay each year by a fleet of over 50 smuggling vessels.

  26. Go through the two kissing gates and cross the stile. Follow the path ahead across the field to reach a farm gate with a kissing gate alongside.

    An account from the end of the 19th Century describes how smuggled goods were transported into Plymouth:

    We descended a very steep hill, amidst the most fetid and disagreeable odour of stinking pilchards and train oil, into the town...we met several females, whose appearance was so grotesque and extraordinary, that I could not imagine in what manner they had contrived to alter their natural shapes so completely; till, upon enquiry, we found that they were smugglers of spiritous liquors; which they were at that time conveying from cutters at Plymouth, by means of bladders fastened under their petticoats; and, indeed, they were so heavily laden, that it was with great apparent difficulty that they waddled along.

    The main hazard on the journey to Plymouth was apparently not from customs officials but from drunken sailors puncturing the bladders.

  27. Go through the gate and cross the lane to the driveway to Wringford Farm. Follow this past the car park on the right and keep right at the fork in the track to reach a public footpath sign.

    It's tempting to think that with modern technology such as GPS, shipwrecks on the Cornish Coast are a thing of the past. An incident in Cawsand Bay in 2002 showed, even with modern technology, how vulnerable ships still are to bad weather.

    In December 2002, the tanker "Willy" had unloaded its cargo of oil in Plymouth was anchored in Cawsand Bay awaiting further orders. A strong southeasterly wind blew up on New Year's Day; the ship's anchor cable was too short for the conditions and the anchor began to drag. The crew had set a "guard zone" on their GPS but this was relatively wide so when the alarm triggered, the ship was already half-way towards the shore. By the time the main engine was started, there was insufficient time to manoeuvre the ship out of danger and it ran aground. Rescue was impeded by the danger of explosive gas within the empty oil tanks, so the crew were evacuated using cliff lines. The ship was vented over the next three days before being re-floated and taken to a dry dock in Falmouth. The hull was found to be extensively damaged and the ship was declared a total loss.

  28. Bear right onto the footpath and follow it to reach a kissing gate into a field.
  29. Go through the kissing gate and follow the path ahead along the grassy ridge across the field to a gap in the hedge in front of a bunker. Walk through the gap to reach a waymark.
  30. When you reach the waymark, bear left and follow the narrow path between the hedges to emerge onto a lawned path and reach a junction of paths.
  31. Keep left along the hedge and follow the path to emerge onto a lane.
  32. Turn left onto the lane and follow it back to the car park.

Help us with this walk

You can help us to keep this walk as accurate as it possibly can be for others by spotting and feeding back any changes affecting the directions. We'd be also very grateful if could you look out for the following:

  • If you have a large dog, let us know if you find problems with the stiles on this walk (e.g. require the dog to be lifted over). A rough idea of how many problematic stiles there are is useful as some single women can just about manage one or two but not a dozen.

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