St Agnes to Trevellas Porth

The route climbs from Trevaunance Cove through Downquay Gardens to the Coast Path and follows this to Trevellas Porth. Here the route turns inland passing the engine houses and Blue Hills Tin where ore from the seabed is still worked on a small scale. The walk follows the stream up Trevellas Coombe and then tracks, footpaths and lanes lead towards St Agnes. The walk follows Water Lane along the stream to the Peterville Arms and through the woods to the bottom of the stepped row of cottages known as Stippy Stappy. The return route is via Coronation Walk along the edge of Trevaunance Coombe, with views over St Agnes.

Vital statistics

  • OS Explorer: 104 (scan QR code on right to order from Amazon)
  • Distance: 3.1 miles/4.9 km
  • Grade: Moderate
  • Start from: Trevaunance Cove car park
  • Parking: Trevaunance Cove car park. Approaching St Agnes from the B3277, turn right when you reach the mini-roundabout as you enter St Agnes. Follow the road past the church and down the hill to a roundabout just past the Peterville Inn. Then follow signs to Trevaunance Cove. Satnav: TR50RX
  • Recommended footwear: Walking boots

Maps for this walk

(dark blue corner = laminated version)

Highlights

  • Sandy beach at Trevaunance Cove and rockpools at Trevellas Porth
  • Bird's eye views of Trevaunance Cove and St Agnes from Downquay Gardens and Coronation Walk
  • Iconic engine houses and mining relics surrounding St Agnes
  • Pretty wooded valley of Trevellas Coombe with a cascading stream
  • Historic pub and local brewery at the Driftwood Spars

Adjoining walks

Directions

  1. From the car park, follow the path directly opposite leading uphill into Downquay Gardens. Follow the path through the gardens to reach the open area at the top.

    Downquay Gardens is situated at the bottom of Quay Road, opposite the Trevaunance Cove car park in St Agnes. Until 2011, Downquay Gardens was an area of wasteland beside the coast path until it was given to the village and transformed by local volunteers to create the gardens. There are a number of benches overlooking Trevaunance Cove, which makes it an excellent picnic spot.

  2. When you reach the open area at the top, turn immediately right, up the small path marked with a "to coast path". Follow this to a kissing gate.

    From the open area, there is a good view of the remains of St Agnes harbour at low tide.

    Since the 17th century, there have been many attempts to create a harbour for St Agnes - all with limited success. From 1632, the lords of the manor of Trevaunance made three separate attempts to build a harbour. Their third harbour was washed away in 1705 together with their family legacy. The harbour was rebuilt in 1710 by others and lasted 20 years before being levelled in 1730 by the Atlantic waves. In 1798, a new harbour was constructed which was to last for over 100 years. This supported a fishing industry and allowed for the export of copper ore and the import of coal from South Wales for the smelters at the mines. St Agnes remained a busy port until the collapse of the harbour wall in a storm in 1915/16, after which it was never rebuilt.

  3. When you reach the gate, go through it and turn left onto the coast path. Follow this uphill to a waymark.

    Harbour walls created from mortared square blocks of granite during the Victorian period very quickly become unstable when the mortar between them is eroded by the sea. The large square blocks are particularly susceptible to the hydraulic lifting effect of the sea and the receding waves can suck loose blocks out of the harbour wall.

    The previous old-fashioned way of building drystone harbour walls from unshaped boulders stacked on their edges did not suffer this problem, as the hydraulic pressure would be released through the gaps between the stones and the narrow, rounded bottom of each one did not present the sea much surface area to lift against.

  4. At the waymark, bear left in the direction of the spoil heaps. Follow the path along the base of the heaps until you reach another waymark where the path forks.

    The metallic minerals associated with outcrops of granite tend to occur in bands which radiate out from the granite outcrop. A band of tin deposits usually occurs closest to the granite, then beyond this a band containing copper ore. A band of zinc and lead deposits is commonly found further away from the granite, with just iron at the furthest extreme. The reason for the banding is that the deposition of each mineral occurs within a specific temperature range. Granite starts as a molten blob of magma which cools very slowly and provides a source of heat. The temperature of water in the cracks in the neighbouring rock therefore decreases with increasing distance from the hot granite.

  5. At the waymark, take the path on the right. Both paths rejoin, but the recommended route is to the right, as the path along the cliff edge is crumbling away. Continue to reach a similar waymark at a junction of paths.

    The mine workings to your right were part of Wheal Kitty. Some of the old engine houses have been converted into residential buildings, and the area is also the headquarters of the Cornish marine charity Surfers Against Sewage.

    Surfers Against Sewage (SAS) is an environmental charity dedicated to protecting the UK's oceans, waves and beaches. They were established in 1990 by Cornish surfers, campaigning about untreated sewage being drained into the sea and have pressured water companies into cleaning up their act. As well as highlighting any remaining areas for improvement to water treatment, they have also diversified their efforts to tackling other forms of marine pollution, in particular marine rubbish: a plastic bottle left on a beach may persist in the marine environment for more than 450 years, and a large proportion of the rubbish on a beach is sadly dropped there by beach-goers. As well as educating the public, they also organise beach cleans.

  6. At the junction, take the path ahead and follow this down into the valley until it ends at a gate.

    Cornwall's iconic engine houses were built to house huge beam engines - a type of steam engine with a pivoting beam. This configuration was particularly suited to powering pumps to stop the quarry pits and mines from flooding as water trickled into them from above. Inside the engine house, steam from a boiler would push up a piston, causing the beam to tilt downwards, pushing the pump down into the shaft. The steam would then be shut off and cold water would be used to condense the steam within the piston back into water, creating a partial vacuum. Atmospheric pressure then pushed the piston back down into the vacuum, raising the beam and lifting water out of the shaft. The valves to apply the steam and cold water were mechanically automated, maintaining a steady rocking motion of the giant beam.

  7. Cross the stile next to the gate and bear left onto the track. Follow it until you reach the Blue Hills Tin sign.

    At this point you can make a short detour to the left to the rocky cove of Trevellas Coombe, returning here to resume the walk. Across the rocks on the left-hand side of the beach is a another small beach with mineral veins in the cliff that contain gold sparkling pyrites crystals.

    In rocks on the mine tips or in veins in cliffs above the beaches, you may find golden crystals in the rock. These are likely to either be pyrite (iron sulphide) or chalcopyrite (also containing copper) and are collectively known as "fool's gold". However, there is a little less foolishness involved than the name may suggest:

    • Iron pyrite often contains trace amounts of actual gold, sometimes in levels high enough to make it an important gold ore.
    • The pyrite containing copper was the main copper ore mined in Cornwall on which fortunes were made. In Victorian times, the Wheal Towan mine was estimated to generate a Guinea a minute for its owners when a working wage was around sixpence a day.
  8. Turn right in the direction indicated to Blue Hills Tin and follow the path past the engine house to a gate leading into Blue Hills Tin.

    In 1974 Blue Hills Tin was set up as a small-scale tin producer using the tin ore from the seabed that washes ahore at Trevellas Porth. It is dressed and smelted using traditional methods; for example, water-powered stamping machines are used to crush tin the ore. For a number of decades, they have been the only tin producer in the UK, but with tin and copper prices in 2014 around 500% higher than they were in 2000, it's possible that large-scale mining of Cornish tin may once again become economically viable.

  9. At the gate, keep left on the path along the fence. Follow the path alongside the stream for about half a mile to reach a bridge at Jericho cottage.

    Trevellas Coombe is a valley close to St Agnes and was known as the Blue Hills due to the colour of the slate here. The placename was first recorded in 1302 as the site of the Trevellas family manor. There is a long history of tin mining in the valley. Initially this was "streaming" for alluvial tin and from the 1690s onwards, the stream in the valley provided the power for tin processing. By the late 1800s, almost the entire valley was covered with huge sheds and ore dressing machinery.

  10. Keep left along the path on the left side of the river and follow it until you reach a signpost near a footbridge.

    Tin is a semi-rare metal well-known for its corrosion resistance which is used extensively in electronics, engineering alloys and anti-corrosion coatings. Unlike many other "heavy" metals, it is not poisonous which has resulted in its use within food packaging - the ubiquitous "tin can" - and increasingly as a replacement for lead, which was used extensively before its toxicity was understood.

    Tin is found in Cornwall as the ore cassiterite (tin oxide) which occurs in small crystals amongst other rocks; even a "rich" tin ore only contains 5% tin. The name for the ore is thought either to come from the Greek kassiteros meaning "tin" or from the Phoenician name Cassiterid for Britain and Ireland.

  11. Bear right across the footbridge to join a track. Turn left onto the track and follow it until it ends on a road.

    When a bar of tin metal is bent, it emits an audible screaming/cracking sound, known as a "tin cry". This freaky behaviour arises due to a crystallisation phenomenon known as "twinning" that occurs frequently in tin, where two or more crystals grow out of each other, sharing a common section (the name arose from "Siamese twins"). The "crying" sound is caused by these joined crystals snapping apart.

  12. Turn left onto the road and walk a short distance to a lay-by opposite. Follow the path from the back of the lay-by to reach a stile into a field.

    At temperatures below 13.2°C, tin slowly changes from a silver-white metal to a grey, crumbly, non-metallic form which causes tin objects to gradually disintegrate at low temperatures. The decomposition catalyses itself, so speeds up once it starts. The transformation, known as tin disease, tin pest, tin blight or even tin leprosy, was first noticed on cathedral organ pipes in the Middle Ages and was assumed to be the work of the devil. As lead is phased out of the solder in electronic items leaving principally tin, this presents a technical challenge as solder which disintegrates all over a circuit board in the cold, only to become conducting again when it warms up, is a recipe for short-circuits.

  13. Cross the stile and follow the left hedge of the field to reach a stone stile in the far hedge.

    From 1337-1837, the Cornish tin industry was double-taxed because Cornwall was deemed "foreign". The additional taxation (known as "coinage") rates levied on Cornish tin compared to that mined in Devon were paid to the Duchy of Cornwall.

    On May 15 2000, the Revived Cornish Stannary Parliament sent an invoice to the Duchy of Cornwall for an inflation-adjusted £20 billion for recovery of overcharged taxation on tin production by the Duchy of Cornwall. The invoice, which had terms of 120 days, has so far not been paid. Statutory interest on a late payment of that amount is over £1.5 billion per year.

  14. Cross the stile and turn right onto the lane. Follow it until you reach a junction on the left with a 20 sign.
  15. Turn left at the junction and follow the road to the bottom of the hill.
  16. Keep right at the bottom of the hill to stay on the lane. Follow the lane alongside the stream until the lane eventually ends at a junction.
  17. At the junction, bear right towards the junction with the main road to reach a cut-through on the left in front of the buildings.

    The original name for the settlement of St Agnes was along the lines of Breanek or Bryanick, a Cornish name which may mean either "Agnes hill", or more mundanely "pointed hill". Either way, this is likely to refer to St Agnes Beacon. Since prehistoric times, the area was a centre for mining copper, tin and arsenic.

  18. Bear left towards the roundabout and cross the road towards the Peterville Inn. Follow the lane until the Inn is on your right.

    At the top of the hill is St Agnes Church.

    The first church in St Agnes was believed to have been built in early celtic times and it also had an enclosure. The current church of St Agnes was built on the same location around 1482. St. Agnes, to whom the church is dedicated, was a Roman girl who was only thirteen years old when she put to death for refusing to marry the emporer's son.

    During an excavation in 1931, to add heating to the church, the remains of an earlier chapel were discovered and also a wet area that is thought to be the remains of a holy well. By the churchyard gate is a granite wayside cross which dates from the Middle Ages.

  19. Bear right off the lane and alongside the Inn to reach a metal gate into the woods. Go through the gap next to the gate and follow the path alongside the stream to a fork. Keep right at the fork to reach a stone path alongside the water. Follow the path over the bridge and along the edge of the stream until it ends on a track.

    At the top of the steep hill on your left is a row of cottages known as Stippy Stappy.

    The row of 18th century cottages on a steep path from Town Hill in St Agnes known as "Stippy Stappy" was built when St Agnes had a working harbour at Trevaunance Cove. The cottages were built originally for ships' captains, though following the obliteration of the harbour by the sea, their occupancy rapidly diversified.

  20. When the path emerges onto the track, turn right and follow the track a short distance to reach the road. Turn right on the road and follow it a short distance uphill to reach a track on the left.
  21. Turn left onto the track, marked Coronation Walk and follow this until you reach a sharp bend.
  22. At the bend, continue ahead to join a path and follow this along the edge of the valley until you reach a waymark at the coast path.

    During Victorian times when the harbour still existed, St Agnes held a regatta. As part of this, local miners would compete in a drilling competition in which a team or two or three men would drill into a piece of granite by hand. Each team had 15 minutes to drill as deep as they could into the rock and the deepest hole would win, which was typically around 2 feet deep. Whilst the Victorians' idea of a good time could not be described as "sex, drugs and rock and roll", given the hardness of granite, this is pretty impressive nonetheless.

  23. At the waymark, turn left to descend to the road beside the Driftwood Spars hotel.

    The Driftwood spars is located beside the road to the beach at St Agnes. The building was converted over the years from a number of buildings dating back to the 17th Century, including a tin mining warehouse, chandlery, sail making loft and fish cellar. The name is derived from the huge timber beams (spars) that are said to have come from ships wrecked along the coast. The pub started its own micro-brewery in 2000 and since then, the beer has won national awards. All the proceeds from their Red Mission beer go to the Cornwall Air Ambulance.

  24. Turn right on the road to reach the car park and beach.

    Trevaunance Cove is a shingle at high tide and is popular with surfers as its north-facing position means that the prevailing southwesterly winds are offshore. As the tide goes out, the central area of the beach is sandy. To the right, large areas of rock are revealed with numerous rock pools, and a low tide it is possible to clamber over the rocks to reach Trevellas Cove. On the left side of Trevaunance Cove are the remains of the old harbour wall and beyond this there are caves, arches and rock stacks along the cliffs.

Help us with this walk

You can help us to keep this walk as accurate as it possibly can be for others by spotting and feeding back any changes affecting the directions. We'd be also very grateful if could you look out for the following:

  • If you have a large dog, let us know if you find problems with the stiles on this walk (e.g. require the dog to be lifted over). A rough idea of how many problematic stiles there are is useful as some single women can just about manage one or two but not a dozen.

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