Barrett's Zawn and Dannonchapel

The walk follows the valley and climbs onto the headland above Barrett's Zawn. There is a tunnel to the beach through which slate used to be hauled - it's still just possible to crawl through to the beach though not recommended. The walk continues along the coast to the ravine at Dannonchapel, heading inland past a ruined manor along footpaths and lanes to the start of the walk.

Vital statistics

  • OS Explorer: 109 (scan QR code on right to order from Amazon)
  • Distance: 4.7 miles/7.6 km
  • Grade: Moderate-strenuous
  • Start from: Lane inland from the Port Gaverne crossroads
  • Parking: Off the lane inland from the Port Gaverne crossroads. Turn down the lane signposted "St Teath" between the two houses at the Port Gaverne crossroads and pull off the road onto the grassy triangle where the lane forks. Satnav: PL303LN
  • Recommended footwear: walking boots

Maps for this walk

(dark blue corner = laminated version)

Highlights

  • Clifftop views over Barrett's Zawn beach
  • "Donkey Hole" - a hidden tunnel to Barrett's Zawn beach (entry not recommended)
  • Eerie 1000-year old ruined hamlet of Dannonchapel
  • Panoramic views over Port Isaac Bay from the coast path
  • Birds of prey hunting along the deep gorge at Dannonchapel
  • Country lanes and tracks lined with pretty wildflowers in spring and summer

Alternative walks in same location

Directions

  1. From the triangle where you parked, walk along the lane in the direction signposted to Port Gaverne, to the main road.
  2. Cross the road onto the lane to Port Gaverne and follow it until you reach a signpost saying "To the coastpath".

    The road from Port Gaverne which joins the Delabole road was quarried out in the early 1800s by the Delabole Slate company and known as "The Great Slate Road". Around 100 ships a year came to Port Gaverne to collect slate, each capable of carrying 50-80 tonnes. It would take thirty wagons, pulled by over a hundred horses, to load a sixty ton ship. The slates were loaded by women, who then packed them in straw to protect them on the voyage. The incoming ships also brought coal from Wales and limestone, for the local limekiln, which was used to whitewash the cottages.

  3. Turn right in the direction signposted "To the Coastpath", onto a concrete track to Middle Hendra Farm and follow this into the farmyard.
  4. Follow the track around to the left, passing the farm buildings on your right. Bear left onto a track indicated by a green footpath sign and follow it to the end of the barn.

    Hendra is a common Cornish place name meaning "home farm" (from the Cornish word hendre which itself is based on the words hen meaning old, and dre is equivalent to tre). Hendra was also used as a boy's first name with the meaning literally "from the family farm".

  5. Keep left down the track indicated by the green sign, and follow the track to a house where another grassy track departs to the left.
  6. Follow the track round the right side of the house (Deer Park) to a gate.
  7. Go through the gate and turn right. Follow the right-hand hedge to a post with an arrow in front of the trees.
  8. At the post, bear left and follow the path alongside the woodland on your right to a fence at the end of the field.

    Wooded coastal valleys such as this small one are used for shelter by deer which venture out into the fields beside the coast path at quiet times, particularly in the very early morning.

    Red and Roe deer are the two truly native species of the six found in the UK and both have pointy, branching (rugose) antlers. The Red deer is the largest of the species and has a characteristic large white V on its backside whereas the Roe deer just has a small white patch.

    The fallow deer was introduced by the Normans and has flat, elk-like (palmate) antlers and an inverted black horseshoe surrounding a white patch on its rear end.

    In the late 19th and early 20th Centuries, three "exotic" Asian species (munjac, sika and chinese water deer) were introduced. These all have quite rounded ears whereas the European species all have pointy "elf-like" ears.

    Roe deer, Fallow deer and Red deer are all present in Cornwall and the populations of all three species has increased substantially over the past decade, possibly by as much as a factor of ten. There are also a small number of munjac deer, but far fewer than in the rest of England.

  9. Climb the fence onto a path and follow this towards the coast, passing a waymark, until you reach the coast path.
  10. Merge onto the coast path and follow it downhill into the valley, passing the cliffs overlooking Barretts Zawn, until you reach a waymark beside a grassy hollow.

    At the back of the grassy hollow is the start of the tunnel to Barrett's Zawn beach.

    Barrett's Zawn is a remote beach on the rugged coast between Port Isaac and Tintagel. It is located just north-west of the farm hamlets of Hendra. The beach can only be accessed by sea or via the now disused tunnel on the north side of Delabole Point which was known locally as the "Donkey Hole", because it was once used by donkeys bringing up slate from the beach quarry below.

    It is still just possible to crawl through the tunnel to the beach but part of the tunnel roof has collapsed and it is now not recommended to go through the tunnel as the high cliffs above are unstable. If you do decide to risk it, be aware: there is one narrow squeeze in the tunnel where you'll need to get down onto your belly to slide over a rock, though the rest of the tunnel is reasonably tall; you will also need a torch as it's pitch black in the central section of the tunnel.

    You can walk along the left side of the stream and get out onto the rock platform where the stream meets the sea.

  11. From the waymark, follow the coast path down to the bottom of the valley to a stile and cross the river over the stepping stones. Follow the path up the other side until you reach a stile over a fence.

    The names of many coastal features are derived from words in the Cornish language:

    • Pen - Headland (Cornish for "top" or "head")
    • Pol - often used to mean Harbour (literally "Pool")
    • Porth - Port but often used to mean Cove
    • Zawn - sea inlet (from the Cornish "sawan" meaning chasm)

    Note that Haven has Saxon origins (hæfen in Old English) which is why it tends to occur more in North East Cornwall (Millook, Crackington, Bude etc).

  12. Cross the stile and follow the path over a second stile until you reach a third stile at the edge of a valley.

    There are more than 20 breeding pairs of Peregrine falcons along the coast from Bude to Padstow.

    The peregrine falcon can reach over 322 km/h (200 mph) during its hunting stoop (high speed dive) making it the fastest member of the animal kingdom. In 2005, a peregrine was measured at a top speed of 389 km/h (242 mph). The air pressure at this speed could damage a bird's lungs. However small bony tubercles on a falcon's nostrils guide the powerful airflow away, enabling the bird to breathe more easily while diving. In Cornish dialect, these falcons are known as "winnards" and local expressions include "shrammed as a winnard" (meaning chilled) and "rumped up like a winnard" (meaning huddled).

  13. Cross the stile and follow the path down into the valley until you reach a waymark above the stream.

    Hanging valleys are common on the North Cornish coast and are created due to erosion of the relatively hard cliffs by the Atlantic waves being faster than erosion of the valley by a small river. In many cases, this results in a waterfall where the small river meets the sea cliff, though many of these are little more than a trickle in dry weather. When there is a strong onshore gale, the waterfalls sometimes run backwards!

  14. Follow the path over the stepping stones and up the steps to a kissing gate. Go through this and follow the path to a gate in the fence at the top of the valley.
  15. Go through the gate and continue along the coast path until you reach a waymark signposted to Tregardock beside a kissing gate.

    Next to the beach below the ruined hamlet of Dannonchapel, you can still see remains of a slate dressing and shaping floor located on a rock jutting out to sea below the main line of the cliffs. Here, lengths of wall enclose a level platform on the rock where there are traces of dressing waste. At the point nearest the mainland are rows of stacked finished slates, apparently never retrieved and now inaccessible. When the quarry was working, this rocky platform was probably linked to the mainland either by an aerial cableway (known as a blondin) or a horse-powered winch (known as a whim).

  16. At the waymark, go through the kissing gate in the direction of Dannonchapel and continue through the gap in the wall into a field. Then follow along the wall on the left to a gateway on the far side of the field.

    If you are crossing fields in which there are cows:

    • Do not show any threatening behaviour towards calves (approaching them closely, making loud noises or walking between a calf and its mother) as you may provoke the mother to defend her young. Generally the best plan is to walk along the hedges.
    • If cows approach you, do not run away as this will encourage them to chase you. Stand your ground and stretch out your arms to increase your size.
    • Avoid taking dogs into fields with cows, particularly with calves. If you can't avoid it: if cows charge, release the dog from its lead as the dog will outrun the cows and the cows will generally chase the dog rather than you.
  17. From the gateway, follow the path along the left hand hedge to another gateway onto a track running between the ruined farm buildings.

    The ruined hamlet of Dannonchapel, near Tregardock, is over 1000 years old and included a manor house first recorded in the Domesday Survey of 1086 when it was known as Duuenant. Its Domesday entry notes that it had "land for 3 ploughs" and 40 acres of pasture. The name comes from the Cornish "downans" which means deep valley. The suffix 'chapel' was added later in the 1300s.

  18. Follow the track past the buildings and continue on it to reach a gate across the track.

    It's possible that after wet weather, what we describe here as a "track" may be what you'd call "a stream"!

    In wet weather, water running off the fields can find a path or track that has been worn by many travellers and adopt this lowest point as a watercourse. If you find yourself walking on a path or track that a stream is running along, it's often best to walk along the watercourse which is likely to have a stony bed. The edges are often soft mud, where you are more likely to sink.

  19. Go through the kissing gate on the left of the farm gate and follow the track to a corner with kissing gate and signpost.
  20. At the gate, bear right to stay on the track and follow it in the direction of the barn until it ends in a gate.
  21. Go through the gate next to the barn and cross to the gates opposite. Take the left hand gate and follow the track through several fields until it emerges in a farmyard.
  22. Go through the gate at the end of the track and turn left. Follow the track to the main road.
  23. Turn right along the road and walk approx 20 metres past a building, to another track; then cross the road to a stile opposite marked with a Public Footpath sign. Cross the stile and bear right across the field to a gateway in the right-hand corner of the far hedge.

    If there are sheep in the field and you have a dog, make sure it's securely on its lead (sheep are prone to panic and injuring themselves even if a dog is just being inquisitive). If the sheep start bleeting, this means they are scared and they are liable to panic. If there are pregnant sheep in the field, be particularly sensitive as a scare can cause the lambs to be stillborn. If there are sheep in the field with lambs, avoid approaching them closely, making loud noises or walking between a lamb and its mother, as you may provoke the mother to defend her young. Sheep may look cute but if provoked they can cause serious injury (hence the verb "to ram"). Generally, the best plan is to walk quietly along the hedges and they will move away or ignore you.

  24. Go through the gate into the field on the left and follow the right hedge, heading for the bottom right corner.

    There a nice views from these fields across the Camel Valley with the tors of Bodmin Moor in the background.

  25. Go through the gateway ahead into the next field. Follow the right hand hedge to a stile at the bottom right hand corner.
  26. Cross the stile and turn left, following the left hedge to the kissing gate in the left hand corner.
  27. Go through the kissing gate and bear right and follow the path through the trees to emerge on a track.
  28. Turn left onto the track and follow it until it ends on a lane.

    The walls were originally railway bridge crossing the North Cornwall line.

    The North Cornwall Railway as a venture backed by the London and South Western Railway to compete with the Great Western Railway for services to Cornwall. The North Cornwall line ran from Halwill in Devon to Padstow via Launceston, Camelford and Wadebridge and was built for economy rather than speed, including climbs and curves to avoid costly construction work. The line was opened in sections at the end of the 19th century, reaching Padstow in 1899. There was an aspiration to connect Wadebridge to Truro, but this was never realised. Due to holidaymakers increasingly travelling by car in the 1960s, demand for passenger services dwindled and the line was closed as part of the cuts in 1966.

  29. Turn right onto the lane and follow it to the triangle where you parked.

Help us with this walk

You can help us to keep this walk as accurate as it possibly can be for others by spotting and feeding back any changes affecting the directions. We'd be very grateful if could you look out for the following:

  • Any stiles, gates or waymark posts referenced in the directions which are no longer there
  • Any stiles referenced in the directions that have been replaced with gates, or vice-versa
  • If you have a large dog, let us know if you find problems with the stiles on this walk (e.g. require the dog to be lifted over). A rough idea of how many problematic stiles there are is also useful.

Take a photo and email contact@iwalkcornwall.co.uk, or message either IWalkCornwall on facebook or @iwalkc on twitter. If you have any tips for other walkers please let us know, or if you want to tell us that you enjoyed the walk, we'd love to hear that too.

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