Deadman's Cove to Red River Valley

The walk starts on the North Cliffs at Deadman's Cove and follows the coast path to a second cove of the same name before reaching Hell's Mouth. The route turns inland through a river valley and along a farm lane to the Gwealavellan cross. The walk then descends into the Red River valley at Menadarva and follows the bridleway through the nature reserve to Coombe, completing the circular route via a footpath.

Vital statistics

  • OS Explorer: 102,104 (scan QR code on right to order from Amazon)
  • Distance: 5.1 miles/8.1 km
  • Grade: Moderate
  • Start from: North Cliffs car park
  • Parking: North Cliffs car park at Deadman's Cove. On the B3301, the car park is the first one on the coast in the direction of Godrevy from the Tehidy Country Park signs Satnav: TR140JG
  • Recommended footwear: Walking boots; wellies in winter (for stream crossing)

Maps for this walk

(dark blue corner = laminated version)

Highlights

  • Rugged coastline along the North Cliffs
  • Red River Valley nature reserve

Directions

  1. Facing the sea, take the path from the left side of the parking area. Follow the path past two more small parking areas to pass alongside the road then reach a third, with a North Cliffs National Trust sign.

    There is a footpath down to the beach but it is steep in places and the bottom section has been covered in scree by a cliff fall.

  2. Follow the path around the parking area to a path leaving from the other side. Follow the path along the coast until you reach Hell's Mouth (where there is a café), then cross the road to the public footpath sign next to the café.

    The car park overlooks a narrow sandy inlet known as Derrick Cove. At low tide, it's possible to walk along the beach to this from Deadman's Cove.

    As you continue along the path, the cove with a reasonably large island is also known as Deadman's Cove. The prevailing wind would drive bodies from ships wrecked on the Stones Reef into the shore here, and this may be the origin of the names.

    The footpath diversion at Hudder Cove (just before you reach Hell's Mouth) is the site of the spectacular cliff collapse that was captured in a video posted on YouTube in 2011. The cliff has further cracks and is liable to collapse again in the near future.

  3. From the public footpath sign, follow the path between the hedge and café to reach a track.

    The cliffs above Hell's Mouth are one of the highest points in the area at just under 300 feet. The cove, cliffs and two isolated stacks out to sea are breeding grounds for guillemots and razorbills, fulmars and kittiwakes. The caves were once used by smugglers.

    There is a blowhole in the caves on the east side of the beach which makes a boom as compressed air escapes, towards high tide. There is also a good view of the blowhole towards the end of Navax Head which, when the tide is high and there is a sufficient swell, produces a large horizontal jet of spray.

  4. Turn right and follow the track along the hedge until it ends at a gate next to a waymark.

    In the 1780s, Britain was in financial crisis after losing the American War of Independence. High levels of duty were imposed on luxury goods in order to recoup the national debt and this included the curing salt vital to the pilchard industry which was taxed at around 4000%! Consequently many Cornish fishermen that were previously legally employed by the trade were driven into illegal smuggling. Towards the end of the 18th Century, nearly half a million gallons of brandy and more than a quarter of a million pounds of tea were being smuggled into Cornwall each year. This continued until the 1840s, when Britain adopted a free-trade policy that slashed import duties. Within ten years, large-scale smuggling was just a memory.

  5. Turn left down the waymarked path and follow the boards over the marshes and footbridges over the streams to reach a pedestrian gate.
  6. Go through the gate and follow the left hedge all the way up the field to reach a gateway in the top hedge.
  7. Go through the gate and follow the left hedge to reach a gate onto a lane.
  8. Turn right onto the lane and follow it until you reach a wayside cross on your left, just before the cottages.

    The mediaeval cross at Gwealavellan was found to be in use as a gatepost and was restored by Camborne Old Cornwall Society. It was one of thirteen marking the route from Gwithian to Camborne Church. The name of the farm - Gwealavellan - is from the Cornish words gwel a melyn meaning "view of the mill".

  9. Turn left through the gate beside the cross and follow the right hedge of the field to a pair of gates in the far hedge.

    There are said to be 360 wayside crosses in Cornwall. In the mediaeval period, stone crosses were sometimes placed by the road or path. There have been various reasons for erecting these: markers placed along routes used by Christian pilgrims, or as a shrine in reverence, perhaps to a saint who has some connection to the locality. Others mark burial sites, a disaster, a miracle, or some other event that should be remembered. In some cases, they were erected to mark meeting places for Christian worship and later churches were built adjacent to the cross, resulting in the cross being within the churchyard or close by.

  10. Go through the rightmost gate and follow the left hedge until you can see a stile approximately 70 metres down the far hedge - make for this.
  11. Cross the stile and follow the fence to a gate.
  12. Go through the gate ahead and follow the track around the protruding hedge to where the track ends in a gate.
  13. Go through the gate and pass the stables on your left. As you reach the cottages, bear right down the track and follow it to a lane.

    The settlement of Menadarva dates back to mediaeval times when there was a chapel here, dedicated to St Derwa. The Norman font from the chapel was rescued and is now in the church of All Saints in Tuckingmill. The name of the settlement is from the Cornish Merther Derwa, meaning "grave of St Derwa".

  14. Turn left on the lane and follow it a short distance to a river crossing (stepping stones) with a public bridleway sign.

    Mineral works have been carried out in the Red River catchment area for many centuries and the river water was used for separation processes and as a source of power to drive mills. Relics from this still exist in the form of modifications along the river's course including embankments, diversions and canal-like channels. Even with the advent of steam power during Victorian times, this was still one of the most industrialised areas of Cornwall. Until the late 20th century, the river water was coloured a distinctive red, stained by iron ore washing out of the slime pits and dressing floors into the tributary streams. Towards the end of the 19th Century it was estimated that £30,000 of tin was being lost from the mines into the river each year and ″squatters″ could earn a living by recovering this from the slimy river-bed.

  15. Turn right across the river and follow the bridleway to a waymark beside a bridge.

    Metal sulphide ores within mines react with air and water to form sulphuric acid and dissolved metals. When this acidic solution (known as Acidic Mine Drainage) meets other water, it is diluted and the reduced acidity causes dissolved iron to precipitate out as orange or yellow hydroxides, colouring the water and sticking to anything in the watercourse. In the case of copper mines, copper stays dissolved in the water and at higher levels this can be toxic to wildlife, particularly fish.

    Where there is a large amount of water coming from a mine which is not rendered harmless by natural dilution, reed beds have been found to be very effective in treating the acidic water. Plants and bacteria in the reed bed convert the dissolved metals into insoluble compounds that are trapped within the reed bed. There are even suggestions that the metals may be commercially recoverable after they have been concentrated in the reed bed over a period of time.

  16. Continue ahead on the bridleway, ignoring any waymarked paths joining from the sides. Follow the bridleway until it ends at a bridge onto a lane.

    The Red River Local Nature Reserve is on the site of what was once an industrial wasteland resulting from acid mine drainage and tin streaming. Helped by some schemes such as the reed bed at Dulcoath to filter the water draining from the mine adits, the area is now in the process of naturally regenerating. The result so far is a partially wooded valley with heath and some lakes and ponds along the route which were created by the streamworks, including Bell Lake which was originally a mill pond to drive waterwheels and power the equipment to process the ore. The lakes have a healthy amphibian population and otters have also been seen in the reserve as well as foxes, badgers, woodpeckers and a range of other birdlife. This is supported by an insect population including an array of butterflies.

  17. Turn left onto the lane and follow it a short distance to a junction.

    During May, the verges along the lane are covered in bluebells

    Some estimates suggest the UK has up to half of the world's total bluebell population; nowhere else in the world do they grow in such abundance. However, the poor bluebell faces a number of threats including climate change and hybridisation from garden plants. In the past, there has also been large-scale unsustainable removal of bulbs for sale although it is now a criminal offence to remove the bulbs of wild bluebells.

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  18. Turn left at the junction and follow the lane uphill, past Coombe Park, to reach a public footpath sign on the right with a pedestrian gate.
  19. Turn right through the gate marked with the public footpath sign and follow the path uphill until you reach a sequence of 2 gates.
  20. Go through both gates to and continue along the path to another similar sequence of 2 gates.
  21. Again go through the gates and follow the path until it ends at a low stone stile onto the road.

    A wave power test facility is located in a dedicated area of ocean more-or-less directly out from Godrevy Head. Undersea power cables run from the offshore site back to a substation hub in Hayle allowing tens of megawatts of power to be sold to the national grid from the test devices. Shipping lanes from Lands End into Bristol Channel have been moved further offshore to make room for the wave energy pilot and consequently most large vessels are now seen close to the horizon along the north Cornish coast.

  22. Carefully cross the road to the track opposite (marked with a National Trust North Cliffs sign) and follow it to complete the circular route.

    At the bottom of North Cliffs between Portreath and Godrevy Point are a pair of beaches to which narrow, steep paths run from the clifftop. Due to their north-facing aspect, the beaches are often in the shadow of the cliffs. The one with a sandy shoreline is known as Greenbank Cove and the neighbouring beach where the surf breaks onto rocks is known by the somewhat swashbuckling name of Deadman's Cove.

Help us with this walk

You can help us to keep this walk as accurate as it possibly can be for others by spotting and feeding back any changes affecting the directions. We'd be very grateful if could you look out for the following:

  • Any stiles, gates or waymark posts referenced in the directions which are no longer there
  • Any stiles referenced in the directions that have been replaced with gates, or vice-versa
  • If you have a large dog, let us know if you find problems with the stiles on this walk (e.g. require the dog to be lifted over). A rough idea of how many problematic stiles there are is also useful.

Take a photo and email contact@iwalkcornwall.co.uk, or message either IWalkCornwall on facebook or @iwalkc on twitter. If you have any tips for other walkers please let us know, or if you want to tell us that you enjoyed the walk, we'd love to hear that too.

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