St Wenn to Withiel circular walk

St Wenn to Withiel

A circular walk from St Wenn in the upper reaches of the Ruthern Valley, through Rosenannon woods and along the Saints' Way pilgrimage route to the mediaeval church at Withiel, where the Rector shut down The Pig and Whistle for being an ungodly establishment.

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The walk starts near St Wenn church and follows footpaths, tracks and lanes to reach Rosenannon. The walk then joins a path through the woods and follows the river valley to the confluence with the River Ruthern. The walk then joins the Saint's Way to Withiel to reach the church. The return route is across fields and on a country lane with some nice wildflowers during spring and early summer.

Considerations

  • During summer, the path from direction 3 and the final direction can both become overgrown with nettles and the path through the woods at Rosenannon from direction 8 is also prone to summer growth. Take a stick, and secateurs if you have them, to clear your way.

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Vital statistics

  • OS Explorer: 106
  • Distance: 6.1 miles/9.9 km
  • Steepness grade: Moderate
  • Recommended footwear: Walking boots, or wellies after wet weather

OS maps for this walk

OS Explorer 106 OS Explorer 106 (laminated version)

Click or tap on map for more info (blue=laminated)

Highlights

  • Pretty woodland at Rosenannon
  • Wildflowers along the lanes and tracks in Spring
  • Quiet countryside with lots of wildlife

Adjoining walks

Directions

  1. Make your way out of the car park onto the lane and turn left. Follow the lane until you reach the phone box.

    The parish church is dedicated to Saint Wenna - a 5th century saint from Wales who was one of the daughters of Brychan and aunt of St David. The church dates back at least to Mediaeval times: there are records from 12th century that the church was in the possession of the Earl of Gloucester who gave it to Tewkesbury Abbey in around 1150. Like most Cornish churches, it has been rebuilt and restored at least a couple of times since then. The tower originally had three stages but the top section was destroyed by lightning in 1663.

  2. Turn right onto the track next to the phone box and follow this past Glebe Farm, going through a metal gate if it's closed across the track. Then continue on the track down the hill to a gate into a field.

    A glebe was an area of land used to support the parish priest (in addition to a residence in the form of a parsonage or rectory). Occasionally the glebe included an entire farm. It was typically donated by the lord of the manor or cobbled together from several donated pieces of land.

  3. Go through the waymarked gate on the left and follow the track until it ends at a gate onto a lane.

    In summer, the path can get a bit overgrown with nettles so pick up a stick to clear the way.

    The idea of eating something that can sting you seems wrong until you realise that nettles lose their sting as soon as you cook them, and they taste like spinach. Nettles are extremely nutritious, containing high levels of vitamin A and C, large amounts of iron and even a significant amount of protein.

  4. Go through the gate and turn right onto the lane. Follow this until you reach the cattle grid between two stone gateposts.

    The barrel-like contraptions near the road are for feeding pheasants.

    The pheasant is named after the Ancient town of Phasis (now in West Georgia) and the birds were naturalised in the UK by the 10th Century with introductions both from the Romano-British and the Normans. However, by the 17th Century they had become extinct in most of the British Isles.

    In the 1830s, the pheasant was rediscovered as a game bird and since then it has been reared extensively for shooting. The pheasant has a life expectancy of less than a year in the wild and it is only common because around 30 million pheasants are released each year on shooting estates.

  5. Cross the cattle grid and follow the lane ahead until it ends at a T-junction.

    The settlement of Rosenannon was first recorded in 1284 as Rosenonen. The is thought to based on the Cornish words ros, meaning "hill spur", and onnen, meaning "ash tree".

  6. Turn right at the junction and follow the lane to Rosenannon. At the Rosenannon sign, keep right to stay on the lane and follow it around the corner until you reach a phone box beside a chapel.

    Rosenannon chapel was built in 1888 as a Bible Christian chapel.

    By the time John Wesley died, the majority of Methodists were not attending Anglican church regularly, and following his death a Methodist church was formed, separate from the Anglican church. In the first half of the 19th Century, the Methodist movement fragmented into several different factions, often each with its own chapel in the same town. The Bible Christian movement was one of these, founded in North Cornwall in 1815 by William O'Bryan from Luxulyan. His followers are also known as the Bryonites, although after falling out with most of his ministers, O'Bryan emigrated to America. In 1907, the Bible Christian movement amalgamated with other Methodist groups to form the United Methodist Church.

  7. Turn right onto the track running alongside the phone box and follow this through the woods as it shrinks down to a path to reach a bridge. Cross this and continue through the woods until the path ends beside a track.

    This is a silver path, so if it's getting overgrown, please report it to Cornwall Council for cutting.

    Footpaths in Cornwall are graded "gold", "silver" and "bronze". For parishes that take part in the Local Maintenance Partnership, "gold" paths are normally cut routinely once or twice each year whereas paths graded as "silver" are cut at the discretion of the Parish, so these in particular need to be reported to the Parish Council (via the Countryside Access Team - countryside@cormacltd.co.uk - who have the contact details for each parish council) if they start to become overgrown.

    To do this, on the directions screen in the app tap on the menu next to the direction number for the problematic path (or tap on the direction number on the map screen to get the menu), select Report Issue and then Footpath Issue. The app will use the direction number to work out the parish and path number at that location and then create an email to Cornwall Council’s Countryside Team so they can contact the relevant Parish Council. If you can take a photo and attach this to the email, that will help them to see how bad it is and prioritise it.

    Routine cuts on gold paths are typically done in May/June, and any second cuts are in July - September.

    The road continues to the Rosenannon Downs.

    The Downs to the north of Rosenannon were once called Carenza Wortha but are known simply as Rosenannon Downs today. There was once a mediaeval chapel here dedicated to Mary Magdalen but it was destroyed during the English Civil War in the 15th Century. The Downs are now a Nature Reserve, owned by Cornwall Wildlife Trust and the area is a mix of woodland and heath.

    The boggy ground supports plants such as the sundew which has evolved a way to supplement the limited nutrients it gets from the acidic moorland soils, by eating insects that it catches on its sticky hairs which are the botanical equivalent of flypaper. Once it detects that an insect has landed, its folds more sticky hairs in towards the insect to ensure that its prey is completely glued down before releasing enzymes to digest it.

  8. When the path emerges from the trees, make your way to the track ahead and turn right. Follow the track past some buildings and then to the telegraph pole half-way down the hill. Continue just past this then bear left to a worn stony area in the wall at the back of the verge on the left.
  9. Climb up the stony area of the bank and cross the stile into the field. Follow the right-hand hedge all the way across the field to reach a gate in the far hedge.

    If there are sheep in the field and you have a dog, make sure it's securely on its lead (sheep are prone to panic and injuring themselves even if a dog is just being inquisitive). If the sheep start bleating, this means they are scared and they are liable to panic.

    If there are pregnant sheep in the field, be particularly sensitive as a scare can cause a miscarriage. If there are sheep in the field with lambs, avoid approaching them closely, making loud noises or walking between a lamb and its mother, as you may provoke the mother to defend her young.

    Sheep may look cute but if provoked they can cause serious injury (hence the verb "to ram"). Generally, the best plan is to walk quietly along the hedges and they will move away or ignore you.

  10. Go through the gate and continue straight ahead towards the far side of the field. As you approach, pass to the right of the tree-lined hedge protruding into the field. Keep this hedge on your left to reach a gate.
  11. Go through the gate and turn left onto the lane. Follow it for just under a mile until it ends at a T-junction.

    The farm at Trewollack is thought to date from early mediaeval times and was first recorded in 1284 as Trewoleck. Other than tre indicating a farmstead, the origin of the rest of the name is not known.

  12. Turn left at the junction and, after a short distance, right at the next junction, signposted to Withiel. Follow the lane past Tregolls Farm until you reach a stony track on your right, opposite a wooden fence on your left.
  13. Turn right down the stony track and follow this past one footbridge to a second which offers a less immersive river crossing than the ford.

    The River Ruthern is one of the major tributaries of the River Camel which it joins at Grogley. The name may have come from the Cornish word "rudhen" meaning "red one".

  14. Cross the bridge and follow the track uphill from the other side of the ford until it forks just before some buildings.

    To date, culling of grey squirrels has not reversed their domination of woodland habitat and alternative approaches such as planting food with contraceptives are being explored as a means to control the population. The theory is that infertile squirrels can compete for food against fertile squirrels, whereas culling can create a glut of food resulting in a higher number of squirrels surviving which replace those that were exterminated. Natural predators such as goshawks or pine martens also remove more grey squirrels than red squirrels. This is because red squirrels are more savvy having co-evolved with the predators so for example they recognise the scent of pine martens and actively avoid areas with this.

  15. Turn left at the fork and follow the track past one waymark at a gate to reach another waymark at a junction of tracks further up the hill.

    The Saints' Way runs for 30 miles from Padstow to Fowey, and follows one of the likely routes of early Christian travellers making their way from Wales and Ireland to the Continent during the Dark Ages. Rather than risk a premature martyring on the rocks around Land's End, they would disembark their ships on the North Devon and Cornish coast and cross the peninsula, on foot, to ports on the south coast such as Fowey. The Bush Inn at Morwenstow is thought to be one of the stopovers from the North Devon ports. The route from Padstow to Fowey was in use before the Dark Ages which is evident from Roman coins found along the route. However it is thought that it was likely to have been in use even earlier still, in the Iron Age.

  16. When you reach the waymark, bear left to join the track and follow it to a junction with a lane around the Withiel churchyard.

    The name Withiel derives from the Cornish name Gwydhyel, meaning "wooded place". The settlement itself dates back to before Norman times, having 25 households when it was surveyed in 1086, for the Domesday Book. Withiel also has links with 4th century Irish saint, St Uvel, which may indicate there was a settlement here in the Dark Ages.

  17. Turn right at the church and follow the lane, which becomes a track, until it ends at a gate and a grassy track departs ahead.

    The church in Withiel is dedicated to St Clement and dates back to the 13th Century. The dedication (to the third Pope of Rome) is thought might be a result of one parish vicar who was previously at St Clement Danes (the RAF church on the Strand, in London). In the early 16th century, Withiel church was owned by the monastery of Bodmin but had been allowed to go to ruin. Thomas Vyvyan became rector of the church in 1523 and began to rebuild it, and it split from Bodmin monastery in 1538. Much of the main building dates from this time though by the early 19th century, the church was in a state of neglect. The church underwent a major restoration in 1819 which included the addition of the Gothic pinnacles. More recently, the church organ was restored and has its own YouTube video.

  18. Follow the grassy track to a gate where a path departs to the left.

    Until 2005 it was thought that grasses evolved around 10 million years after the dinosaurs became extinct, based on the earliest fossil of a grass-like plant. Consequently the BBC went to great effort to find filming locations with no grass for its ground-breaking computer animation series "Walking with Dinosaurs". Since then, fragments of a grass plant related to rice and bamboo have been found in fossilised dinosaur dung. Also the fossil remains of a rodent-like creature which appears to have grass-eating adaptations suggests that grasses could have been around as far back as 120 million years ago.

  19. Turn left onto the path and follow it until you reach a gate.

    To discourage herbivores from eating them, nettles leaves have tiny spikes which inject a stinging venom. The myth that nettle stings are caused by acid is one that needs debunking as the formic acid in nettle venom is at a concentration that is too low to cause a sting. It is actually a combination of neurotransmitters (histamine, serotonin and acetylcholine) in the venom which causes skin irritation. The most effective relief is likely to be from an antihistamine cream but only if applied quickly enough.

  20. Go through the gate and follow the path ahead until it emerges into a field.
  21. Continue straight ahead across the field to meet the right hedge. Follow all the way along the right hedge to reach a metal gate in the corner of the field.

    Buzzards breed once they reach 2-3 years old. During their breeding season in spring, male buzzards create spectacular aerial displays to impress females by soaring high into the air and dropping suddenly towards the ground. The birds then pair for life.

  22. Go through the gate and turn right onto the track. Follow the track until it ends at a gate near a farm.

    The common name "foxglove" dates back many hundreds of years but the origin is unknown. The "gloves" almost certainly refers to the shape of the flowers, and the Latin name Digitalis (finger-like) is along similar lines. The curious part is the "fox" and many different suggestions have been made as to where it came from. It is possible that it is a corruption of another word. One suggestion is "folks" which was once used to mean "fairies".

    The bushes on the opposite side of the valley are on the site of the Lanjew iron mine. There are some records of yields in the 1850s which indicate the scale was quite small. It is also recorded both on the 1st and 2nd editions of the OS map from the 1880s and early 1900s, respectively, but only as disused on the second edition. The overgrown remains of a chimney still exists on the other side of the stream.

  23. Go through the gate and turn left. Follow the track to the farmhouse and keep right to pass the farmyard on your right. Continue around a bend to the left to reach an unsurfaced track departing from the right.

    The settlement of Lanjew was first recorded in 1290 as Lenthu and is thought originally to have been from the Cornish words lyn and dhu meaning "black pool". Once the Cornish language became spoken less, many place name drifted towards an English-sounding word - jew in this case.

  24. Turn right down the grassy track and follow it to a gate.
  25. Go through the gate and turn left. Follow the left hedge to a gate, crossing the small stream just before the gate.

    Although it's obvious that you should ensure any gates that you open, you also close, what about gates you find that are already open?

    If the gate is fully open then leave it alone as it may well be providing livestock access to a water supply, and by closing it you could end up killing them.

    If the gate is ajar or swinging loose and not wedged or tied open then it's likely that the gate was left open by accident (possibly by another group of walkers). Properly closing the offending gate behind you will not only bring joy to the landowner but you can feel good about saving lives in a car swerving to avoid a cow in the road.

    If you encounter a gate doubly-secured with twine that can be untied or a chain that can be unfastened, it's normally there because naughty animals have managed to undo the gate themselves a some point (e.g. by rubbing against the bolt), so retie/fasten it afterwards.

  26. Go through the gate and follow all the way along the left hedge to reach another gate.

    There are a few different species of buttercup. One of most common is meadow buttercup (unsurprisingly found in meadows!) which is the tallest member of the family. Another common one is creeping buttercup which as the name suggests spreads through rhizomes so is more likely to be found in dense clumps in damp places. Its leaves are also more golden and glossy.

    Today, more than 11,000 species of grass exist around the world. In the UK, around 160 species occur. The most widely sown grasses by farmers are ryegrasses (recognisable by the alternating spaced-out "ears of corn" pattern of seeds along the stem) as these are able to take up nitrogen fertiliser efficiently and also generate high levels of sugars. On dry land, cocksfoot (recognisable from distinct tufts of seeds) is often sown as this is the most deep-rooted of the grass species.

  27. Go through the gate and turn right onto the lane. Follow it for about a quarter of a mile, past Prince's Park Farm and Prince's Park, to reach a junction on the left to Demelza.
  28. Continue ahead on the lane for roughly the same distance again until you reach a passing place on the road with two metal gates on the left and a stone stile on the right beneath the trees.

    Demelza Castle was situated at the top of the hill to the left of the lane.

    Demelza Castle was an Iron Age hillfort which was reported in the 18th Century as having three ramparts but only the remains of two are now visible. Earlier reports suggested that a third rampart much further out could have enclosed a settlement from which the fort with the inner two ramparts could have formed a retreat. However, no evidence for the third rampart or a settlement has so far been discovered.

  29. Cross the stile on the right. Cross the field towards the buildings to reach a stone stile in the opposite corner.
  30. Cross the stile and follow along the left hedge until you reach the gate into the car park.

    This is also a silver path, so if it's getting overgrown, please report it to Cornwall Council for cutting.

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