Bedruthan Steps to Porthcothan circular walk

Bedruthan Steps to Porthcothan

A circular walk featuring some of the most spectacular scenery of the North Cornish coast including the rock stacks of Bedruthan Steps, the azure lagoon of the Trescore Islands and the sheltered golden sandy beach at Porthcothan.

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The walk follows the coast alongside Bedruthan Steps, where the beach can be reached at low tide. The walk then crosses Park Head, the location for the elaborate fly-over horseriding shot featured in the BBC's Poldark series to reach the rocky cove of Porth Mear. The route then follows the coast past the lagoon of the Trescore Islands to reach the sheltered beach at Porthcothan. The walk follows the valley to Porthcothan Mill and footpaths and small lanes form the return route via Old Macdonald's Farm and Bedruthan.


  • Route includes paths close to unfenced cliff edges.

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Vital statistics

  • OS Explorer: 106
  • Distance: 6.2 miles/10 km
  • Steepness grade: Moderate
  • Recommended footwear: walking shoes, or trainers in summer

OS maps for this walk

OS Explorer 106 OS Explorer 106 (laminated version)

Click or tap on map for more info (blue=laminated)


  • Spectacular coastal scenery
  • Rockpools at low tide at Porth Mear
  • Sandy beaches at Pentire Steps and Bedruthan Steps and Porthcothan
  • Mawgan Porth can be optionally included in the route
  • Wildlife including kestrels, skylarks and seabirds
  • Spectacular coastal wildflowers in spring and early summer


  1. Make your way across the car park to the gap in the wall beside the building signposted Shop. Go through the gap and take the left-hand path. Keep left to follow the path along the fence until it eventually emerges through a gap in a wall onto the Coast Path.

    The buildings which now house the National Trust shop and café at Bedruthan Steps were once the offices and outbuildings of Carnewas mine. This operated for just over 20 years from the mid 19th century. Initially it extracted lead, antimony and silver but later much larger amounts of iron ore. The ladders and steps to the beach were probably originally built to access the mine workings.

  2. Turn right onto the coast path and follow it past some junctions to the right to where the path forks.

    Project Neptune was started by the National Trust in 1965 to purchase and protect large portions of the British coastline. By 1973 it had achieved its target of raising £2 million and 338 miles of coastline were looked-after. The project was so successful that it is still running although mainly focused on maintenance. There is still an occasional opportunity when privately-owned coastal land is sold. A particularly notable one was in 2016 when the land at Trevose Head was put up for sale and successfully purchased by the National Trust.

  3. Take the left-hand path along the fence to where the two paths rejoin just in front of a waymark.

    The name Bedruthan Steps is commonly used to refer to either this stretch of coastline, the beach or the series of offshore rocks.

    Bedruthan Steps is the name of a stretch of rocky coastline between Padstow and Newquay. The area lies in the parish of St Eval, just to the west of the hamlet of Bedruthan.

    There is no record of the name "Bedruthan Steps" before 1847, but it is thought to have originally referred to one of the two cliff staircases to access Carnewas mine (presumably the one nearer to the village of Bedruthan). The name later also became used for the name of the beach itself.

    The legend of Bedruthan Steps was invented for Victorian tourism, said to be taken from a mythological giant (Bedruthan) who used the rocks as stepping stones.

    The rock stacks were formed after the last Ice Age, when rising sea levels eroded the surrounding soft shales to leave the harder rocks as islands. Each of the 5 rock stacks has a name (Queen Bess, Samaritan Island, Redcove Island, Pendarves Island and Carnewas Island).

    More about Bedruthan Steps.

  4. Turn left onto the cobbled path and follow it down the steps to where an unsurfaced path departs to the right.

    The beach at Bedruthan Steps is only exposed as the tide starts to go out. Initially several small coves are revealed as the tide falls and towards low tide these join into a large beach.

    The beach is accessed by a long flight of steps which lead from a gate just below the viewing area. Note that the gates are closed during the winter when the National Trust café is not open.

    Since only one of these coves has a set of steps, care should be taken not to get cut off by the incoming tide (tide times are displayed on a board beside the gate on the way down). Due to the channels between rocky islets across the beach, there are strong tidal currents and swimming is therefore not advisable. It is also a good idea to avoid choosing an area to sit that is directly below the cliffs as these are crumbling in many places: as well as occasional landslips, loose stones may be disturbed by birds.

  5. The path to the left leads down to the beach which you may want to visit before returning here. The walk continues to the right, through the gap in the wall. Follow the path up the steps to reach a waymark and continue a couple of paces to a gap in the bank on the right where a rectangular stone structure is visible.

    The sandy seabed along the coast here provides good camouflage for flatfish.

    Flatfish such a turbot and plaice are sand-coloured on their upper surface so they blend into the seabed and can both ambush passing prey and hide from predators.

    Flatfish begin life as a normal (non-flat) fish with one eye on each side of their head. As they mature, one eye gradually migrates over the top of their head to the other side. They then spend their whole adult life lying on their side.

  6. Go through the gap in the bank and then follow along the bank to enter the car park. Exit the car park via the path back onto the coast and continue on the coast path to reach a fenced-off mineshaft. Continue a few paces further to a junction of paths just after the mineshaft.
  7. Merge onto the path ahead and follow it to a fork in the path at a National Trust sign for Park Head.

    The low banks between the path and cliff are the remains of a prehistoric cliff castle, known as Redcliff Castle. Most of the headland has since fallen into the sea, but there are still remains of a pair of circular ramparts which have been cut into the bedrock.

  8. Keep right to follow the path further away from the cliff edge (the cliff supporting the outer path is starting to crack) to where they rejoin in front of a stone wall.

    The corn bunting is a small brown bird and as its name suggests, it has a preference for cereals. Consequently it has been living alongside humans since Neolithic times when our ancestors started to domesticate cereal crops. Its common name "fat bird of the barley" gives away its appearance, resembling a very portly skylark that looks like it would have trouble getting off the ground, let alone hovering. Its call is equally unglamorous, described as the shaking of a bunch of keys. Sadly, the once common and familiar bird has vanished from many areas and is now endangered. The rapid decline is thought to be due to industrialisation of arable farming methods. In Cornwall, the coastal land management provides an important habitat in which the birds thrive.

  9. Follow the path between the wall and fence to reach a kissing gate.

    The "herringbone" style of walling built with tightly packed alternating diagonal slate courses, is unique to Cornwall's heritage.

    It is known locally as "Curzy Way" or "Kersey Wave", based on the Cornish word kersy which means "reeds", perhaps referring to a square weave pattern. It is also sometimes known as "Jack and Jill" which is likely to be based on the falling down part of the nursery rhyme.

  10. Go through the gate and head towards the wall opposite to reach a waymarked kissing gate on the corner of the wall.

    Skylarks are the most common member of the lark family in Britain and are often known simply as "larks".

    Skylarks are one of the most widely distributed of all British birds, found from coastal dunes to mountain tops. In Cornwall, they can be seen both in coastal fields and on Bodmin Moor. The coastal heath is a particularly good habitat for them, being mild but with fairly short vegetation in which they can hunt for insects.

  11. Keep left to stay on the coast and follow along the wall on your right in the direction waymarked for Porthcothan. When the wall ends, follow the path across the field to reach a bench at the end of another stone wall.

    The peregrine falcon can reach over 322 km/h (200 mph) during its hunting stoop (high speed dive) making it the fastest member of the animal kingdom. In 2005, a peregrine was measured at a top speed of 389 km/h (242 mph). The air pressure at this speed could damage a bird's lungs. However small bony tubercles on a falcon's nostrils guide the powerful airflow away, enabling the bird to breathe more easily while diving. In Cornish dialect, these falcons are known as "winnards" and local expressions include "shrammed as a winnard" (meaning chilled) and "rumped up like a winnard" (meaning huddled).

  12. Keep left to follow the path between the gorse bushes to reach a slate waymark.

    At the slate waymark, a path to the left leads out onto Park Head where the remains of an Iron Age hillfort can be seen. The low plateau is surrounded by ramparts which are believed to date from the first century BC.

    The purpose of enclosures within ramparts varied quite considerably. Some were built as forts to defend from marauding invaders such as the seafaring Scandinavians. Others were defences built around small villages either as a status symbol/deterrent or for the more practical purpose of preventing domestic crimes such as theft of property by occupants of neighbouring villages. There were even some which were probably just a confined space used to stop livestock escaping!

  13. Turn right at the waymark and follow the cliff-edge path to reach a stone wall.

    If there are sheep in the field and you have a dog, make sure it's securely on its lead (sheep are prone to panic and injuring themselves even if a dog is just being inquisitive). If the sheep start bleating, this means they are scared and they are liable to panic.

    If there are pregnant sheep in the field, be particularly sensitive as a scare can cause a miscarriage. If there are sheep in the field with lambs, avoid approaching them closely, making loud noises or walking between a lamb and its mother, as you may provoke the mother to defend her young.

    Sheep may look cute but if provoked they can cause serious injury (hence the verb "to ram"). Generally, the best plan is to walk quietly along the hedges and they will move away or ignore you.

  14. Continue ahead keeping the wall on your right then follow the waymarked path. At the last of the slate waymarks, head towards the small headland ahead then follow the path leading down from it to reach a gate.

    In April and May the headland is covered with (blue) squill and (purple) dog violet flowers.

    The carpets of tiny blue flowers on the coast during April and May are the appropriately-named spring squill, which up close is a star-shaped pale blue flower with a dark blue stamen. They achieve their early flowering by storing energy over the winter in a bulb so they can be the first flowers out on the cliffs before they become overshadowed by larger plants. They thrive in locations which are beaten with wind and salt-laden spray which they are able to tolerate but other plants, which might otherwise out-compete them, cannot.

    Wild thyme grows along the coast and flowers from June to September with tiny pink flowers. During mediaeval times, the plant was a symbol of bravery, possibly due to derivation from the Greek word thumos, meaning anger or spiritedness. An embroidered motif of a bee on a sprig of thyme is said to have been given by mediaeval ladies to their favoured knight.

    Coastal land management including removal of excess gorse and grazing to keep taller plants in trim has allowed wild thyme to become more widespread as well as the Cornish chough. Wild thyme is a nectar source for many bees and butterflies and the food plant for young caterpillars of the large blue butterfly.

    A burial mound is recorded either side of the path.

    Barrows are megalithic tombs constructed with stone supports and covered with a mound of earth. Archaeology has revealed that the ancient tribes of Cornwall practised burial of their dead. Important individuals, such as kings or tribal chiefs, were often buried in monumental tombs to indicate their significance. Valuable items such as weapons and jewellery were often buried along with the dead. However, many barrows have been subject to grave robbers over the ages, meaning much of this treasure has been lost.

  15. Go through the gate and follow the path to a fork at a waymark. Bear left over the footbridge and follow the path behind the cove to a waymark beside a flight of steps.

    The cove ahead is Porth Mear.

    The name Porth Mear is easily confused with Porth Meor beach at St Ives and Porthmeor Cove near Zennor because all of these are from the Cornish for "big cove". There is a shingle beach at high tide. At low tide, a large rock platform is exposed with lots of rockpools.

    Porth Mear has some excellent rockpools at low tide.

    Rockpool fishing is quite a popular childhood pass-time as a number of species can be lured out from hiding places by a limpet tied on a piece of cotton (leave a trailing end as if anything swallows the limpet, very gently pulling both ends of the cotton will cause it to release the cotton-tied limpet from its gullet). If you are intending to put the creatures into a bucket: ensure it is large, filled with fresh seawater and kept in the shade; ideally place in a couple of rocks for the creatures to hide under; do not leave them in there more than a couple of hours or they will exhaust their oxygen supply; ensure you release them into one of the rockpools from which you caught them, preferably a large one (carefully removing any rocks from your bucket first to avoid squashing them). Species you're likely to encounter are:

    • Blennies which are fish about 5-10cm long, often found hiding under rock ledges. They can change their colour from sandy to black within a couple of minutes in order to match their surroundings. They have strong, sharp teeth for crunching barnacles and will bite if provoked.
    • Shore crabs and sometimes edible crabs which can also sometimes be found hiding under rocks (carefully replace any rocks you lift up). Shore crabs have a fairly narrow shell which is almost as deep as it is wide. They vary in colour from green through brown to red (the redder individuals are apparently stronger and more aggressive). Edible crabs have a much wider shell which resembles a Cornish Pasty and are always a red-brown colour. Both have powerful claws so fingers should be kept well clear.
    • Shrimps and prawns - do you know the difference? Prawns are semi-transparent whereas shrimps are sandy coloured and generally bury themselves in sand.
  16. Climb the steps and follow the path over one stile to a second stile.

    The reefs just under the surface of the water, parts of which protrude at low tide, provide an ideal habitat for barnacles.

    Barnacles are crustaceans, related to crabs and lobsters. After a planktonic stage, they settle on a rock and never move again. To facilitate genetic transfer between isolated individuals, barnacles have extraordinarily long penises. It is thought barnacles probably have the largest penis to body size ratio of the animal kingdom.

  17. Cross the stile and follow the path around the headland to reach a stile now bypassed by the path.

    The islands overlooked by the path are the Trescore Islands.

    The Trescore Islands lie off the headland between Porthcothan and Porth Mear. The rocky islets are surrounded by a sandy beach which is exposed at low tide, creating a lagoon between the islands and mainland. It is shallow enough to wade across from the mainland at low tide.

  18. Pass the stile and follow the path along the fence posts to reach a kissing gate in a gully leading onto the beach.

    The large hole that you pass is a collapsed cave which is accessible from the beach. DO NOT DROP ANYTHING INTO IT as there may be children below as well as birds nesting on the rock ledges.

  19. Go through the gate and follow the path alongside the beach until it forks as you pass along a hedge on the left.

    The rock stack at the end of the right-hand headland at Porthcothan is known as Will's Rock. This is because smugglers left a man from the Revenue on the rock to drown in the rising tide, however the officer (presumably named Will) survived to tell the tale.

  20. Keep right at the fork and follow the winding path around a fence and past Porthcothan Bay Stores to emerge on the road.

    There is a beach at all states of the tide at Porthcothan, though the beach massively increases in size at low tide, and consequently the tide comes in very fast. At the top of the beach, in the sand dunes, is a store. There are also public toilets in the car park, on the opposite side of the road.

    On the left side of the beach there are some double rock stacks. Before 2014, one of these (known as Jan Leverton's Island) was one large rock with a pair of "windows" going through it, but the central section containing the windows was obliterated by storm waves leaving a stack on either side. To the far left of the beach is a collapsed cave that has openings both onto the beach and the end of the headland through which it's possible to clamber at low tide.

  21. Turn left and carefully follow the road until, just after the bridge, you reach a small path departing to the right.
  22. Turn right onto the small path and follow it until it eventually ends on a track.

    Whilst we find it easier to follow paths than navigate using a compass, birds such as robins have a different approach.

    Robins are also able to see magnetic fields. Receptors in their eyes make magnetic fields appear as patterns of light or colour which allows them to use the Earth's magnetic field for navigation. They only seem to use their right eye for this as the left half of their brain (linked to the right eye) does the processing.

  23. Turn right onto the track and follow it downhill past one house on the left, keeping a careful lookout for a small slate stile on the right opposite Lanthorn House. Cross the slate stile and follow the path into the valley. When you reach the river, turn right (ignore the wooden footbridge) and follow the path over a low wall to reach a stone footbridge.

    The sheltered spot by the river is ideal habitat for damselflies.

    Damselflies are predators similar to dragonflies but are easily distinguishable by the way their wings fold back parallel to the body when at rest whereas the dragonflies' wings are fixed at a right angle to the body. The Damselfly has a much smaller body than a dragonfly which means it has less stamina for flight. Nevertheless, it can hover, in a stationary position, long enough to pluck spiders from their webs.

    Porthcothan Mill is recorded in 1813 and again in the early 1900s implying it was in use throughout Victorian times and possibly before. It was used to grid corn. A mill leat ran along the edge of the floodplain from the confluence of two streams further up the valley to just above the mill.

  24. Cross the stone bridge and follow the path to reach a track. Turn left onto the track and walk a few paces to reach a series of wooden steps leading up to a wooden rail on the right.

    The stone bridge which is now part of the public footpath is thought to be a packhorse bridge dating from mediaeval times.

  25. Climb the steps and follow the path to a kissing gate into a field.
  26. Go through the gate and follow all the way along the right hedge of the field to reach a stone stile in the far hedge.

    Rev Hawker of Morwenstow described the use of a cave in the valley above Porthcothan for smuggling:

    At Porth Cothan the cliffs fall away and form a lap of shore, into which flows a little stream....About a mile up the glen, is a tiny lateral combe. Rather more than halfway down the steep slope is a hole just large enough to admit a man entering in a stooping posture...

    From the description, it would appear that the cave was located in the small tributary valley near Old Macdonald's Farm

  27. Cross the stile and turn left onto the lane. Follow the lane until it ends in a T-junction.

    The nursery rhyme "Old Macdonald had a farm" is thought to have originated in its full form in the USA from some very similar songs recorded in the WW1 era. The E-I-E-I-O was first recorded as Ohio-i-o and a little later as the more cowboy version of he-hi-he-hi-ho. The songs were themselves based on English folk songs, particularly the line:

    With a moo moo here and a moo moo there

    and also one which was even recorded in an opera in the early 1700s as:

    Here a Boo, there a Boo, every where a Boo
  28. Turn left at the junction and follow the lane until you reach a gate on the right opposite a junction to the left.

    Red valerian is also known as kiss-me-quick, fox's brush and Devil's or Jupiter's beard and can be seen flowering in early summer in hedgerows near the coast. The plant is originally from the Mediterranean and is thought to have been introduced as a garden plant roughly around the Tudor period. It has since become naturalised and the brightly-coloured flowers provide nectar for bees, butterflies and moths. Over time the base of the stems can get as thick as a small tree trunk which can lever apart the walls in which it can often be seen growing.

    Red valerian occurs with three main flower colours: about 50% of plants are deep pink, 40% are red and around 10% have white flowers. Very pale pink also occurs to but is much rarer. These distinct forms are an example of flower colour polymorphism. The red pigment within the flowers is an anthrocyanin compound and the different colours are due to different amounts of the pigment.

    The settlement of Treburrick was recorded as Trebruthec in 1321 but it's likely to date from Early Mediaeval times ("Dark Ages") before the Norman Conquest when Cornish was spoken by landowners. It's thought that the name may be based on the name of the owners of the farm during this period.

  29. Go through the pedestrian gate beside the field gate and follow the left hedge of the field to a gate in the far hedge.
  30. Go through the gate, cross the stile and head into the left-hand of the two fields. Then follow all the way along the right hedge to a path leading from the far side of the field; follow this alongside the hedge, into the valley to reach a footbridge.

    In the middle of the field on the right there is a standing stone, known as Treburrick menhir. It is formed from white quartz and is over 6ft tall. When the route reaches the next lane, there is a Public Footpath leading to it from a bend in the lane if you want to have a quick look before continuing.

    Large upright standing stones are known as menhirs due to the Celtic words men meaning stone and hir meaning long. The reason for their construction is unknown; currently the most popular theories are ceremonial. Excavations at some of the menhir sites in Cornwall have found evidence of postholes and pits, and areas of quartz paving. Also beneath some of the stones, charcoal and cremated human bone have been found.

    These charcoal deposits have been radiocarbon dated and found to be between the Late Neolithic and Middle Bronze Age and, until recently, menhirs were thought to be associated principally with the people who inhabited Europe during the Late Neolithic and Early Bronze age (4-5 thousand years ago), known as the "Beaker people" due to the pottery artefacts they left behind. Some recent research has suggested an older origin (perhaps 6-7 thousand years ago, at the very start of the Neolithic period in Britain). There is also evidence that some stones continued to be erected, or re-used, much later in the post-Roman "Dark Ages" (early mediaeval) period when some were also inscribed.

  31. Cross the footbridge and wooden walkway and follow the path over a stile into a field. Continue ahead to meet the right hedge and follow along this to a wooden stile (resembling a fence) on the right.

    Gorse seeds each contain a small body of ant food. The seeds also release a chemical which attracts ants from some distance away. The ants carry the seeds to their nests, eat the ant food and then discard the seeds, helping them to disperse.

  32. Cross the sequence of stiles and bear left slightly to cross the field diagonally (or walk around the edge if there is a crop in the field with no direct path through the crop) to a metal gate located just to the left of the line of trees.

    In fields with crops where the footpath doesn't run along the edge, if there is a well-trodden path then follow this to avoid trampling any more of the crops. If there appears to be no path through the crops then you do have a right to walk through the crop but stick as close as possible to the line of the path to avoid damaging any more of the crop than strictly necessary. Alternatively, you can follow around the edges of the field to avoid trudging though the crop.

  33. Go through the gate to reach a lane and turn right. Follow the lane between the houses and past the old chapel until you reach a junction on the right.

    The settlement now known as Tregona was first recorded in 1327 as Tregonou. The name is thought to be from the Cornish word goon which is roughly equivalent to the English "downs" (low moorland) so the gist would have been along the lines of "farm on the downs". The surrounding land has all since been cultivated but the name reflects how the landscape would have appeared in early mediaeval times.

  34. Turn right at the junction and follow the tiny lane through a sequence of gates until it eventually ends in a T-junction with the main road.

    The name "Bedruthan" was first recorded in 1335 and is thought to be a corruption of the Cornish Bodrudhen (meaning something along the lines of "red dwelling"). It is thought this may refer to the iron ore deposits which were extracted at Carnewas mine. Red Cove, Red Cliff and Redcliff Castle are all likely to have similar origins.

  35. Carefully cross the road and turn left. Follow the road (using the verge to allow any oncoming cars to pass) to reach a "To Coastpath" sign beside a stile on the right.
  36. Cross the stile and continue to the huts. Bear left onto the track here and follow it in front of the buildings and downhill to reach the lowest parking area. Cross this to where a path departs through a gap in the bank at the bottom.
  37. Follow along the bank at the bottom of the car park to a gap beside a rectangular stone structure. Go through this to reach the Coast Path. Turn left and follow the path down the steps. Join the cobbled path and follow this up the steps and back to the car park.

    The Devonshire method for preparing a cream tea is to saw a scone in half, paint each half with clotted cream, and then shovel strawberry jam on top. In Cornwall, things are done a little differently!

    • No scone: in Cornwall, a cream tea is traditionally served with a "Cornish split", a slightly sweet white bread roll, rather than a scone.
    • Butter: a warm split is first buttered.
    • Jam before cream: the buttered split is then spread with strawberry jam, although raspberry jam is also traditional.
    • No spreading of cream: the jam is finally topped with a spoonful of clotted cream.

    Many commercial cream teas in Cornwall resemble Devonshire cream teas, using scones and no butter, with a token reversal of jam and cream. Fortunately, armed with a few splits from a traditional bakery or by baking your own, you can prepare your own cream teas to exacting standards.

    Dissolve 10g fresh yeast and 1 tsp sugar in 350ml of warm milk. Whizz together 500g flour (roughly 50:50 mix of strong bread flour and plain flour), 10g salt and 80g butter in a food processor. Combine dry and wet ingredients and make into a dough. Kneed, prove in a warm place until doubled in size, shape into golf-ball-sized balls and return to a warm place to rise. Bake at 180°C (160°C fan) for around 15 minutes until golden.

    Pop a few strawberries, some sugar and some lemon juice in a bowl large enough that it won't froth over when it boils madly. Microwave for 5 minute intervals until jammy.

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